North American Turbocoupe Organization



ignition problem tfi/pip
trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I replace the TFI/ PIP and the coil. The TFI/ PIP are napa Echlin quality I double checked the TFI with the test procedures sent to me and it came up good twice. Coil is a MSD tfi blaster coil.

After I drive for more then 15 minutes the car wants to cut out and after about 5-10 minutes of doing this it stops the cut out and drives fine.

I went out and bought the proper heat sink compound layered it on and still getting the same problem.

I dont know if it is the TFI heating up and should be remote mounted. Is there a way to test the PIP?
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
I sent you a couple things by email
Pete Dunham


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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#3
thanks Pete I just ran the codes and got nothing alarming. The VAT temp out of range and the BCS unhooked.

I returned my NAPA TFI and got another one, so lets see if it had an intermitent problem.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Tha VAT code is automatic when the temperature is below 50*
Pete Dunham


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firstsvo Offline
Senior Member
#5
I feel your pain. lol.
White '88 auto mostly stock, Black '88 5 speed nowhere near stock
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firstsvo Offline
Senior Member
#6
I wonder how accurate it is when you test the TFI when it's NOT giving you a problem at THAT moment you are testing it.
White '88 auto mostly stock, Black '88 5 speed nowhere near stock
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
Quote:Originally posted by firstsvo:
I wonder how accurate it is when you test the TFI when it's NOT giving you a problem at THAT moment you are testing it.
You are right, CHuck, it isnt accurate. Most TFI problems occur when the TFI gets hot, and often go away, at least for a while, when it cools back down. Testing a suspected intermittant problem with the TFI cold is totally worthless. The only thing a "TFI tester" will show up is a totally dead at any temp TFI, but a totally dead TFI is easy to diagnose even without "having it tested with a tester".
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#8
I installed a new TFI from NAPA to see if the problem changes. I checked the PIP with this test and it came out good.

This was origianlly posted by servinggod

"Step 1:
Engine should be cold at this point. Unplug the spout connector, located by the TFI used for timing. Using a volt meter connect the negative lead to the distributor base. Then start the engine, using the positive lead of the volt meter, measure the battery voltage (positive terminal) at 1200-1500 rpm. Then, using the positive lead of the volt meter, measure the voltage on the TFI module side of the spout plug at 1200-1500 rpm. (remember this voltage for step 3 if necessary) If voltage from spout is greater than 40% of battery voltage replace the stator assy.

Step 2:
If not try this; with the neg. lead still connected to the dist. base and the positive lead on the TFI module side of the spout plug, measure voltage at 1200 rpm and at aprox. 4000 rpm. If the voltage at 4000 rpm is less than 90% of the voltage at 1200 rpm replace the stator.

Step 3:
If not try this; warm the engine up to normal operating temp. With the neg lead still connected to the dist. base, use the positive lead to measure the voltage on the TFI module side of the spout connector at 1200-1500 rpm. Now using the voltage from the 1st test, engine "cold" neg lead on dist base and positive on TFI side of the spout plug. Is that voltage from test 1 less than 90% of the voltage you just took with the engine warm? If so replace the stator. If not stator is probably fine."


This told me my PIP was in good shape lol. Im hoping the old new TFI had an intermitant problem.

I let the car warm up today for about 15 minutes and took it for a drive without any problems. So we will see when i go to work tonight with it.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#9
problem solved I heated the car up and drove it to work. Never had one problem. Looks like it was a bad TFI out of the box.


STUPID NAPA!
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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evintho Offline
Senior Member
#10
One word - Motorcraft!
Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding.
Proverbs 3:5

1986 Turbocoupe 5-spd - New daily driver!
1988 Turbocoupe 5-spd - parts car.
1989 Mustang convertible (Thunderstang). Built '88 TC shortblock, head by Boport, R/R, T3, Bobs log, gutted, rotated, ported mannys, AFPR, LA3, NPR I/C, etc.
Check out Thunderstang!
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