North American Turbocoupe Organization



Idle Adjustment Plate
Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I moved this to a separate post...

Everyone:

I just installed the idle adjustment plate that I received from Ed at Windsor-Fox (Thanks Ed !).

The installation was simple enough. Windsor-Fox supplied the idle adjusment plate, two new gaskets, 2 longer mounting bolts, and a very nice instruction page.

I removed my IAC (or if you prefer IAB) and removed the old gasket. The new idle adjustment plate was sandwiched between the IAC with a gasket on either side of it. The two longer bolts were threaded into the TB.

The new bolts were 10mm hex heads bolts. I'd recommend that the head size be reduced to an 8mm if possible as it is kind of tight in there to get a socket on them (small issue though).

Next you back the idle stop bolt out until the linkage plate doesn't touch it.

Next I started the engine. I almost didn't expect it to start since the stop bolt was backed all the way out...but it did. When it first started, it was idling around 2,000rpm. I let the engine warm up and settle in to around 1,500rpm before I made any adjustments.

There are two small set screws on the top of the adjustment plate. To reduce the idle speed these were screwed in clockwise. In order to get my idle speed down, both of the set screws were almost bottomed out.

But...I will admit, it's the first time I have been able to get it to idle under 1,100 rpm. I stopped when it hit 1,000rpm as it seemed to like this speed the best.

Afterwards, I checked my TPS voltage. Initially it read .79volts ! I assume that since I backed the idle stop out that that would explain the low reading. I re-set the TPS to .92v (I am trying a lower setting for now...usually I had it set to .97-.98volts).

The idle speed seems to stay really constant !

I do, however, still have the situation where my idle speed (on a test drive) will sometimes stick up around 2,000rpm I do not have any clue as to why ? This Winter I plan on taking the entire TB assembly apart (again !) and making sure I don't have any binding in the linkage or butterfly valve.

The Windsor-Fox piece is a very nice piece of machining...it sure make the idle speed adjustment a LOT easier and more precise !

I'll keep tracking the idle speed to see how stable it stays.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Do you leave the curb idle screw on the linkage backed out to where it isnt touching the linkage? If so, BAD IDEA!! This can cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore of the TB, as the aluminum TB expands / contracts at about 1.5x the rate of the brass throttle plate. For example, you shut down hot motor. THrottle plate closes fully in bore. Motor cools, Al bore contracts more than brass throttle plate. Result: throttle plate stuck in the bore.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Actually Jeff, I didn't leave the stop screw backed all the way out...thanks for pointing that out ! I did adjust it so that it does make a full / positive stop on the linkage for that very reason.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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