North American Turbocoupe Organization



I need some advice on servicing my front suspension.
Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Well, the time has come to do something about my suspension on my car. It has close to 240,000 miles on it, and it creaks and moans like an old rocking chair. I really know close to absolutely nothing about the suspension. I searched to try and get a little knowledge so my question wouldn't be so vague, but I'm still pretty lost. I don't know what parts need to be replaced, but I would assume all of it is pretty worn. When I had one of my wheels off the other day, I noticed that I could put 2 of my fingers in between the sway bar and the rubber bushing that holds it to it's mount. It was really saggy. It would be safe to say that the rest of the suspension is like this and needs to be replaced. In my reading, I learned that polyurethane is better than the old rubber, and I learned that the expensive coilover kit is out of my budget. So, here is my question...Who sells the stuff that I need and what is the stuff that I need to make my front suspension work like normal again? I'm not asking what upgrades will make my car drive like it's on rails (although that would be awesome), but rather, what will fix the stock stuff and make it as good as or better than new. My PRC's work fine, so I'm not looking to replace them. I don't know the difference between shocks and struts, and fabbing up something using welding is not gonna happen. I guess the question of "Can I do this stuff myself?" needs to be asked too. Special tools? I really have no idea what I'm getting into, huh? Any help or thoughts would be great. Thanks

Edit: Having just read this to myself, I sound like a complete noob, but I am mechanically inclined, somewhat good with tools, and fantastic at math (I'm an Algebra teacher). So, I am capable even if it's difficult; I'll just need some guidance. Thanks!

Kevin
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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Martin Offline
Senior Member
#2
SOunds like, by your description, there is not much left of the front suspension. 2 fingers between the sway bar and "whats left of the bushing! Those bushings are tough to install when new, they are so tight! IF you want this to be your driver and play at all, go with all new parts, and ou know where you stand.
MOst of the parts for the front suspension should be avaiable at Rock Auto amongst any other Auto Stores. Items such as sway bar links, lower control arm bushings, ball joints, springs, spring insultors, tie rod ends etc are still available, some in Poly but honestly, rubber lasts for a while as well. Most of the parts you can readily do the work yourself. Bushings etc at least.
It is harder and harder to get aftermarket suspension for the Old Girls. THe cars were no slouch in the suspension performance as they came from the factory, so unless your into serious lowering or want to beat the twisties to death, stock works well. Other than the PRC may be a bit saggy now.... Moog makes springs, as do others. I am doing the rear suspension now with Moog. I have always had luck with Moog parts.


!!! Front springs take some work, but doable at home. Mechanically inclined is subjective! So are the selection of tools most of us have.If it looks really complicated to you, then best not tackle it without help. Springs under load are missles waiting to happen!!!
I did my front end with all Ford OEM ( tucked away long ago, including new lower controls arms, complete) I would recommend taking the lower control arms and the new Ball joints to a machine shop to press them in for you. It can be done at home with a rented tool as well.
Over all its not an overly complicated repair. Just stick to the torque specs, cause if you ball it up, your the one that is driving it, and the last thing you need is for something to not be put in correctly.
Martin
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#3
I found this front end kit from PST. Is this the kind of thing that I'm looking for?

http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-2238-96-ford-t-b...72-88.aspx

And by the way, this is my daily driver, I like to drive fast and I live in the Ozark Mountains of northern Arkansas....so, yes, handling is important to me. Big Grin
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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86 XR7 5spd Offline
Senior Member
#4
PST is a good company with quality products

I bought a similar kit for my 68 GTX from them 15 yrs ago

the price you get with the kit is much lower than if you bought everything separately
David T
T5 / ported E3 / .63 / 35# / K&N
2.5" exhaust w/ cherry bomb
30+ mpg! 8.2 0-60, [email protected] 1/4 (gTech)
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xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Thanks for the link! I'll be doing my suspension in the near future. The only difference is I'll also be doing the rack and tie rods too. Thats much more reasonable than I had priced out.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : [email protected] / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage [email protected] 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#6
+2 for the PST kit which has been on my car for just over 5 years now. The front does have a slight rub sound going over speed bumps as opposed to stock rubber. Even though I greased the heck out of it. But it hasn't gotten any worse and has never squeaked like poly does.
Sold it Sad*
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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Quote:Originally posted by xcrunnerbd:
Thanks for the link! I'll be doing my suspension in the near future. The only difference is I'll also be doing the rack and tie rods too. Thats much more reasonable than I had priced out.
The kit shows that it comes with tie rod ends. What else would you need to replace with the tie rod?

What do you mean when you say that you'll be doing "the rack"? I really have no clue on this suspension stuff.
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#8
rack = rack & pinion = steering gear. Some racks come with inner tie rods, some don't. Tie rod ends = outer tie rods. I know I need a new rack because mine leaks PS fluid like a seive especially if it sits for a while (more than a day or so).
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : [email protected] / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage [email protected] 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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zbird Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Cardone has the 15:1 rack 2.5 turns lock to lock. It comes with inner tie rod ends installed. I installed a new rack this winter (all 2.5 months of it) and it feels like a new car.
Dom Z
88 T/C med grey. 140 MPH Speedo, Kirban FPR, Gillis valve,Tripminder, K&N.
87 T/C Silver, Auto (project Daily driver)
99 F150 4x4
14 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo
IF YOU DRIVE A FORD YOU DON'T NEED A GOODWRENCH!!
88 T/C http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZihO_D1FLCE
87 Silver http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dVU5axnb...ature=plcp
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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#10
What does the new rack do for you suspension-wise? What is the ratio of the stock rack?
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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