North American Turbocoupe Organization



I'm BAAAACK... With a few ??
tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#1
Last weekend, I decided to bring the TC back to life after a 5 year hiatus. All it needed was a battery, and some air in the tires. The plan was to tag it as a classic and drive it once in a while, and work on fixing the bugs as time goes.

After driving it to the beach, and getting 28.6 mpg, I’ve decided it should be a daily driver (My Volvo only gets 24), so now I must work out the bugs, all 3 of which are electrical

1. I managed to rip out the wires in the plug down by the reverse light switch, so I had to run a wire from the ignition harness straight to the starter solenoid in order to be able to start the car with the key.. I reconnected the wht to wht at the 4 pin plug, but that didn’t do anything. I cannot figure out where the other 3 wires were connected to. The white wire appears to be the reverse lights, but they still do not work.
2. The low fuel light was on constantly (see my post from 4 years ago, LOL), but I fixed the voltage input to the dash, and it worked correctly at first. The problem is now, it will come on at random times even though I am not low on fuel. It seemed to have a delay before to allow for the sloshing of gas when cornering stopping etc…, but now will flicker on and off randomly
3. The PRC has never worked since I bought the car 10+ years ago. I pulled the pass front actuator apart (code 3) last night and it works, but the brushes on the motor are running past the end of the contacts. The FAQ mentioned about rubber stops, which I assume is to prevent this, but I do not know where or how they could go.

Any help is appreciated. I am not young enough anymore to be ok with driving a car with stupid little problems. This car needs to be 100%, then the mods begin.

-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#2
As far as the low fuel light, mine was doing the same thing... the problem for me was with the wiring near the module (behind passenger kick panel, toward the door jam) which is a small black box. I didn't actually find the culprit, but I remember when removing the panel previously and messing with the wires a little, it started working for a while, then stopped. I opened it back up about a month ago, again not finding anything, but wiggled the wires at the box and it's been working fine since.

Can't help with the other two issues though...
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!! (SOLD)
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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firstsvo Offline
Senior Member
#3
If you open the glove box all the way(ALLLLL the way), as in have it hang down, there is a little black box to the right with I beleive 1 screw holding it and a connector going into it. Remove the little black box and unplug and plug the plug back in a few times. It worked for me. Mine was on constantly and this fixed it.
White '88 auto mostly stock, Black '88 5 speed nowhere near stock
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Pete D Offline
Posting Freak
#4
This help any?
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00000004/prcact.jpg

The 88 EVTM shows that the W/PK and the R/LB are for the neutral safety switch. These should be two of the 4 wires as the manual shows the reverse switch and the neutral safety together on the trans The R/LB goes to the START terminal on the ignition switch. The W/PK goes to the Clutch safety switch.

Haven't found the wires for the reverse switch yet
Pete Dunham
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#5
Maybe my eyes are failing me, but I do not see the "stoppers" on the stepper motor.

Also, I could have sworn I had a copy of the EVTM, but cannot find it now. Is there anyone that sells them at a decent price?

On the left (drvr) side of the trans there is a connection, that is where I connected the "white" wire (could be wh/pnk). It sounds like my no start is due to interruption of the start feed (rd/bl), but that still doesn't answer why I dont have b/u lights, and where (not what)the other wires connect to. I think i'd have to see a good one, or a diagram to understand it.

-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Quote:Originally posted by firstsvo:
If you open the glove box all the way(ALLLLL the way), as in have it hang down, there is a little black box to the right with I beleive 1 screw holding it and a connector going into it. Remove the little black box and unplug and plug the plug back in a few times. It worked for me. Mine was on constantly and this fixed it.
I had exactly the same problem, with exactly the same fix.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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firstsvo Offline
Senior Member
#7
Gotta love the little things. lol.
White '88 auto mostly stock, Black '88 5 speed nowhere near stock
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