86thunderchicken
Joined:
Jan 2011
Salem, Oregon
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Alright got it all handled! I ended up pulling the slave cylinder out and testing to make sure it was moving back and forth and it was. Put it back in and clutch pedal felt a hell of a lot firmer started the car and I could get it into all gears and she’s done!!
1986 TC 240,000 miles. Walbro 255. Soon to be under the knife for an 87 5 speed swap
1992 Mustang LX 5.0, headers, H pipe, and soon to have subframe connectors to boot!
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Good to hear it is up and running!
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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ABird
Joined:
Mar 2011
Myerstown, PA
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(09-20-2020, 01:11 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Good to hear it is up and running!
Ok, so this morning I backed the car up, riding the clutch because I was going uphill, and the clutch lost pressure, right to the floor, the car stalled. I pumped the clutch a few times and the pressure came back to the pedal. I thought it was odd, but drove the car anyway. It felt fine, just like normal. Not sure what to do. Thanks.
AES
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Kuch
Joined:
Sep 2016
Manlius, NY USA
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I would say either your slave or your master is shot.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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ABird
Joined:
Mar 2011
Myerstown, PA
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(01-09-2021, 03:51 PM)Kuch Wrote: I would say either your slave or your master is shot.
Ok, I ordered both, $58 with shipping, thanks.
AES
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anasazi4st
Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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01-10-2021, 11:32 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-10-2021, 11:35 AM by anasazi4st.)
(01-09-2021, 09:21 PM)ABird Wrote: (01-09-2021, 03:51 PM)Kuch Wrote: I would say either your slave or your master is shot.
Ok, I ordered both, $58 with shipping, thanks.
When replacing the clutch master cylinder, please remember—like I said before:
THE INFORMATION IN FORD’S 1987 SHOP MANUAL IS INCORRECT. (So is the information in the Hayne’s manual.) You do **NOT** rotate the master cylinder CLOCKWISE to remove it. You’ll be trying to do that all day.
This was corrected in the 1988 Supplement to Ford’s Shop Manual. To remove it, you rotate it COUNTERCLOCKWISE 45 degrees, then pull it from the firewall.
Depending on the slave cylinder you receive, the instructions could be misleading. Some advise you to turn the small Allen screw on the slave cylinder to bleed it. This sounds like a good idea until you realize that the slave cylinder is made of PLASTIC, so it is prone to strip its threads. (Please don’t ask me how I know about this.)
The CORRECT way is to carefully unhook the plastic strap (be careful with that! It will break free the first time you apply the clutch pedal, and you’ll need the “hub” part of that strap to properly engage the clutch). Now, work the piston back and forth, in and out—have an assistant watch the master cylinder reservoir to keep it full, and to watch for bubbles.
When the bubbles are all gone the job of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is done. Please remember to replace the strap.
Clutch Master Cylinder parts from the manufacturer LuK detail this procedure, which is how I learned it.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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ABird
Joined:
Mar 2011
Myerstown, PA
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(01-10-2021, 11:32 AM)anasazi4st Wrote: (01-09-2021, 09:21 PM)ABird Wrote: (01-09-2021, 03:51 PM)Kuch Wrote: I would say either your slave or your master is shot.
Ok, I ordered both, $58 with shipping, thanks.
When replacing the clutch master cylinder, please remember—like I said before:
THE INFORMATION IN FORD’S 1987 SHOP MANUAL IS INCORRECT. (So is the information in the Hayne’s manual.) You do **NOT** rotate the master cylinder CLOCKWISE to remove it. You’ll be trying to do that all day.
This was corrected in the 1988 Supplement to Ford’s Shop Manual. To remove it, you rotate it COUNTERCLOCKWISE 45 degrees, then pull it from the firewall.
Depending on the slave cylinder you receive, the instructions could be misleading. Some advise you to turn the small Allen screw on the slave cylinder to bleed it. This sounds like a good idea until you realize that the slave cylinder is made of PLASTIC, so it is prone to strip its threads. (Please don’t ask me how I know about this.)
The CORRECT way is to carefully unhook the plastic strap (be careful with that! It will break free the first time you apply the clutch pedal, and you’ll need the “hub” part of that strap to properly engage the clutch). Now, work the piston back and forth, in and out—have an assistant watch the master cylinder reservoir to keep it full, and to watch for bubbles.
When the bubbles are all gone the job of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is done. Please remember to replace the strap.
Clutch Master Cylinder parts from the manufacturer LuK detail this procedure, which is how I learned it.
Many thanks anasazi4st, nothing worse that following the wrong directions.
AES
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anasazi4st
Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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(01-10-2021, 09:42 PM)ABird Wrote: (01-10-2021, 11:32 AM)anasazi4st Wrote: (01-09-2021, 09:21 PM)ABird Wrote: (01-09-2021, 03:51 PM)Kuch Wrote: I would say either your slave or your master is shot.
Ok, I ordered both, $58 with shipping, thanks.
When replacing the clutch master cylinder, please remember—like I said before:
THE INFORMATION IN FORD’S 1987 SHOP MANUAL IS INCORRECT. (So is the information in the Hayne’s manual.) You do **NOT** rotate the master cylinder CLOCKWISE to remove it. You’ll be trying to do that all day.
This was corrected in the 1988 Supplement to Ford’s Shop Manual. To remove it, you rotate it COUNTERCLOCKWISE 45 degrees, then pull it from the firewall.
Depending on the slave cylinder you receive, the instructions could be misleading. Some advise you to turn the small Allen screw on the slave cylinder to bleed it. This sounds like a good idea until you realize that the slave cylinder is made of PLASTIC, so it is prone to strip its threads. (Please don’t ask me how I know about this.)
The CORRECT way is to carefully unhook the plastic strap (be careful with that! It will break free the first time you apply the clutch pedal, and you’ll need the “hub” part of that strap to properly engage the clutch). Now, work the piston back and forth, in and out—have an assistant watch the master cylinder reservoir to keep it full, and to watch for bubbles.
When the bubbles are all gone the job of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is done. Please remember to replace the strap.
Clutch Master Cylinder parts from the manufacturer LuK detail this procedure, which is how I learned it.
Many thanks anasazi4st, nothing worse that following the wrong directions.
These things seem to be remarkably fragile in some ways. I have removed the clutch slave cylinder, treating it very gently and wiring it up to the crossmember so it doesn’t just hang there, whilst doing things like clutch replacement, etc. There have been times when even those simple movements have caused it to fail, and I end up with a clutch that won’t release properly and a car I can’t get into or out of gear. (There are few things more frustrating than having your foot pressed as far as you can get it against the floor and you still can’t change gears.) I’ve made it almost standard procedure to replace the slave cylinder any time I’ve removed it, as the part is relatively inexpensive; it doesn’t seem to matter who the manufacturer is, I’ve had several do the same thing.
Oddly the thing seems to rarely fail once it’s installed, only when it’s removed from the bellhousing and put back on do problems arise.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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John B
Joined:
Dec 2015
New Jersey
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RockAuto has a couple of different clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders. Which ones do you all recommend?
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, Boport 1.5 cam, gutted upper, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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anasazi4st
Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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(03-29-2021, 12:42 PM)John B Wrote: RockAuto has a couple of different clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders. Which ones do you all recommend?
I have had several Luk clutch slave cylinders and have had no issues, so I would give that one a slight edge.
I have also found Wagner to be a good name, overall. And, some of these offer a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty, as opposed to the standard 12,000/12, for whatever that is worth.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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