North American Turbocoupe Organization



Hydraulic Clutch
teal95 Offline
Senior Member
#1
On the way to work yesterday morning I got on it and at about 4500 the tach kept going up but the speedo quit. Being as I've had the car for 100k, it has 190k on it and I've never replaced the clutch I guess it's time. I've had the trans/clutch apart repeatedly in my other cars but they all have cable clutches (including the 2 TC I converted). How do I take care of the hydraulics? Do I have to disconnect the line or can I get the bell out by just unbolting the slave cylinder? How do I bleed it afterwards if I have to disconnect it? I kinda knew this was coming since the pedal point was all the way at the top.

steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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balz24 Offline
Member
#2
I replaced the clutch in my '87 last year. Pull the slave cylinder's plastic cover off. You can pull the whole slave cylinder assembly off pretty easily, there aren't any bolts or anything. Just push in on the little ball that contacts the clutch fork and slide the whole thing out. Zip tie it somewhere out of your way and go to town unbolting and removing the tranny. That's how I did mine. By removing the slave cylinder in this fashion you won't have to bleed the system as it will remain sealed (closed).

Hope this helps.
Balz

87 Turbo Coupe - T-3 turbo, FMIC, Stinger 3", CenterForce clutch, Hurst shifter, TurboXs boost valve, Kirban F.P. regulator & gauge, Walbro 255, Innovate LC-1 wideband, Forge BOV, AutoMeter gauges

2003 Thunderbird Roadster
1964 Ford F-100 V8 4spd
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
You can just slide the slave cylinder out of the bracket on the bell. It is not bolted in. You have to remove the black plastic cover over the end of the clutch fork.

Just don't press the clutch pedal after the rod end of the slave is removed from the fork. You shouldn't have to bleed the hydraulic system unless you have to change the slave or the master. You might want to carefully peel down the rubber piece at the rod end and inspect. A slight amount of fluid is OK but if there is a lot as in enough to be dripping, then the slave is leaking and should be replaced. Another way to check the functioning of the slave, BEFORE anything is disassembled, is to see how far the rod from the slave moves against the fork when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. It should move a minimum of 0.53" If it doesn't move at least this far, replace the slave.

Quote:Picture: BellHousingandSlave1.jpg

This picture shows how the clutch slave cylinder fits into the bracket cast into the driver's
side of the bellhousing. It just slides into the bracket.There are no clamps or straps.
In the picture, #1 is the slave cylinder. #2 is the bracket. #3 is
the hydraulic line fitting that attaches to the slave cylinder. It is held in place by a roll
pin (shown in detail in another picture). #4 is the rod that actuates the clutch fork. If installing a new cylinde there will be a plastic cap on the end of the rod (see #4) Leave the plastic cap on the end of the rod.

Picture: Bleedvalveand RollPinAnnotated.jpg
Shown is the fitting on the end of the hydraulic line as it attaches to the slave cylinder.
It is held in place by a roll pin, "A" that can be driven out by a small diameter punch. The
bleed screw, "B" is used to bleed the system, if needed. Use an allen wrench to open and close.
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...Slave1.jpg http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...dScrew.JPG http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...otated.jpg

Bleed it like you would brakes. Someone open bleed screw then someone push pedal to floor and hold there while bleed screw is closed. Release pedal. Check resevoir often because it doesn't hold much, fill about 1/2 way with brake fluid. There is a molded line on the outside for the fill level. Bleed until air stops coming out.

I think you can still get slave cylinders at NAPA, not sure.
Pete Dunham


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balz24 Offline
Member
#4
Maybe this is a dumb question, but what is that little plastic cap for on the end of the slave cylinder rod? I left mine off when I replaced my clutch. I wonder if that is what is causing my "chirping" noise??
Balz

87 Turbo Coupe - T-3 turbo, FMIC, Stinger 3", CenterForce clutch, Hurst shifter, TurboXs boost valve, Kirban F.P. regulator & gauge, Walbro 255, Innovate LC-1 wideband, Forge BOV, AutoMeter gauges

2003 Thunderbird Roadster
1964 Ford F-100 V8 4spd
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
My guess is it's like a bushing, preventing metal to metal contact and wear. That is only a guess.
Pete Dunham


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DonH Offline
Posting Freak
#6
The slave cylinder came with a piston restraining device to keep the piston from popping out of the cylinder when removed from the clutch housing. The plastic cap is a remnant of that device. Removing it has nothing to do with the chirping.

The chirp is caused by lack of preload on the release bearing. The bearing is supposed to be in contact with the clutch diaphragm when the pedal is up. Without preload the diaphragm just touches the bearing and chirps as it rotates. Preload is adjustable with a cable controlled clutch but not with the hydraulic. Wear on the release arm or the ball stud may be responsible for the noise since without being able to adjust preload everything would have to be perfect to avoid the noise.

I have been thinking that a spring attached to the end of the release arm and anchored towards the rear of the car would get rid of the chirp, but I haven't tried it yet.
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top
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balz24 Offline
Member
#7
Maybe I'll try something like that. That chirping sound drives me absolutely nuts! When you say "release arm", I assume you are talking about the clutch fork?? Maybe that plastic cap acts as a spacer that pre-loads the clutch fork?

I'll experiment with it and see if I can get some results.
Balz

87 Turbo Coupe - T-3 turbo, FMIC, Stinger 3", CenterForce clutch, Hurst shifter, TurboXs boost valve, Kirban F.P. regulator & gauge, Walbro 255, Innovate LC-1 wideband, Forge BOV, AutoMeter gauges

2003 Thunderbird Roadster
1964 Ford F-100 V8 4spd
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DonH Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Yes: fork. I tried putting a spacer in and it merely pushes the piston back in the cylinder without putting any pressure on the fork. Maybe I didn't use a big enough spacer.
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top
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balz24 Offline
Member
#9
Maybe I'll try you spring idea next time I got the car jacked up. I got a couple of other things to do under there anyway.

I'll post some results whenever I get around to trying it.
Balz

87 Turbo Coupe - T-3 turbo, FMIC, Stinger 3", CenterForce clutch, Hurst shifter, TurboXs boost valve, Kirban F.P. regulator & gauge, Walbro 255, Innovate LC-1 wideband, Forge BOV, AutoMeter gauges

2003 Thunderbird Roadster
1964 Ford F-100 V8 4spd
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