North American Turbocoupe Organization



huge amp prob
boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#1
im goin to have a custom sound system installed into my turbo coupe now for 1 i have a real 3000watt amp and i know its gonnna need some juice i considered the 3g upgrade but im gonna need more than that is there a bigger amp alt i can put in it im also gonna put a battery in back for more support..
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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HOODBIRD Offline
Senior Member
#2
I think a lightning cap, reinforce the trunk, Dynomat everything in the trunk, shave the trunk lid for thief's. 3000 watts is a lot of bass if will shake things loose but a 3g alt should be fine with a lightning cap.


I'm building a box with one 12" kicker solobarick to fit in the upper part of trunk. I'm only using a 1000 watt amp.......WOW 3000 is this just 4 bass or are u using all the channels?
86tc 5speed k&n, gfb boost controller, autometer gauges, tripminder, fmic, and upgrading as fast as possible
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zbird Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Hoodbird you are correct, a big capacitor will keep the power drain off the alternator and charging system. Without a cap, you will be hitting the system pretty hard and will fry the battery and alternator( voltage regulator) in a flash. Good luck.
Dom Z
88 T/C med grey. 140 MPH Speedo, Kirban FPR, Gillis valve,Tripminder, K&N.
87 T/C Silver, Auto (project Daily driver)
99 F150 4x4
14 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo
IF YOU DRIVE A FORD YOU DON'T NEED A GOODWRENCH!!
88 T/C http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZihO_D1FLCE
87 Silver http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dVU5axnb...ature=plcp
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
^^^^^ +1 on the capacitor. Use at least a 1.5 Farad, or better yet, a 2 Farad.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Timmay Offline
Senior Member
#5
if ur really worried about the altenator not being able to keep up look up the company ohio generators http://www.ohiogen.com/html/catalog.html
I know for a fact they make altenators ull never be able to suck dry with a 3000 watt amp. How do i know this well lets just say ive had my experience with stereos and this truck couldnt suck one dry.
http://www.termpro.com/asp/competitorsta...r_ID=38235
truck had 15 16volt turbo start batterys and 12 3000watt amps and 2 18 inch subs and a whole lot of concrete. LOL Truck looked really cool when it had the 36x15.5x15 super swampers on it still
1988 Turbocoupe- RIP in a place without rust!
1978 Mercury Bobcat super clean-2.3T, t5 trans, 8.8 rear 3.73 gears 31 spline axles,255 walboro in-line,MBC,3 inch exhaust,4 wheel disc brakes,5 lug
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#6
The capacitors will not keep you from running the battery down and frying the alternator. If it is a true 3000 watt amp, it has the capability to draw over 238 amps continuous , and close to 500 amp peak, that being said, I HIGHLY doubt it is a true 3000 watt amp. What size fuse(s) are in it? It is simple ohms law (I=V/R). To ouput 3000 watts to the speaker(s), you will need at least ( at 100% efficiency) 3000 watts input. 3000 watts / 12.6 volts = 238 Amp.

Adding a capacitor does nothing to help keep the system voltage up, it only serves as a reserve for when the amp's amperage draw exceeds the capability of your wiring, or the vehicles charging system. The "charge" in the cap is only good for miliseconds (that is not a typo), at which point the load is back on the battery(s) and alternator.

The problem with car audio is that it is not regualted in the USA (Home audio is regulated by UL). This means anyone on can put any rating on any amp, and unless you want to take the time and money to sue them for false advertising, there is nothing to stop them. The CEA has gotten involved recently, and now some manufacturers are showing a label stating the true output of their equipment. For instance, newer Sony radios are rated at 17wx4 based on CEA guidlines, versus the old rating of 50wx4. The only way to have an idea of THE highest WRMS (continuous power) of an amplifier is to take its fuse rating and multiply it by 12.6, or for a slightly optimistic number, multiply by 14.

For your amp to truly be a 3000w amp, it will need to have about 250 amps of fusing. If you are mounting it in your trunk, you will need to use at least 3/0 (000)stranded wire, and that is if you are ok with a 3% voltage drop. If you are not familiar 3/0 wire, it is about 3/4 to 1 inch thick with insulation, and costs about $20 per foot (you will need 12-15 feet).

I worked in car audio for over 6 years, and had my personal car take 5th place in the WORLD FINALS of IDBL. I only bring this up, because I dont want you to think I am trying to blow smoke up your a$$.... Everything I have said I know first hand, and would hate to see you go the wrong route...


-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
Well said, Shane. Most amp ratings are rated at peak power, and often relatively high THD levels (sometimes into unrealistic 1 ohm loads) so the power numbers look impressive. Take the advertised number and divide by 4 or 5 (maybe more) to get the RMS number at a reasonable THD level. I agree with you on the caps, they dont reduce total load on the batt and alt, but the do help with the dimming of the lights every time the bass hits.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#8
lets just say this the amp has been bench tested the rated specs of the amp is
1000wrms @ 4ohms
2000wrms @ 2ohms
3000wrms @ 1ohm
bench test put out ran the amp 1 ohm stereo so I had to test per channel. I am honestly pretty amazed about it

20.4 ampsx 45.8 volts so 934.32 RMS per channel so 1868.64 RMS with imp rise 2.25 per channel so 4.5 ohms basically bridged and still did 1868 watts ... also to top it off!!! Dropping to 11.8 during test!!! It is rated 3000 at 2 ohm mono and 2000 at 4 ohm... And I got over 1900 at 4.5 at 11.5 so I am pretty sure this amp does rated and maybe then some. Now I am sure distortion rates were high but for what the amp costs. I did have a problem with it clipping out on my twice while driving on high freq but i am going to cut it some slack for now. I have a battery in the rear But I have cheap 4 gauge going from batt to amp and I am using a so so grounding point which I have the battery grounded there with 4 gauge and 4 gauge from the battery to the amp so perhaps it is getting some restriction.
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#9
I am curious what method you used to come up with those numbers.

What is the total fuse rating on the amplifier?
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#10
i just copy and pasted what someone bench tested on the amp idk how they do it but thats what they got when they tested it
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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