North American Turbocoupe Organization



How much R-12?
Huffin Offline
Junior Member
#1
I changed my O rings last night and pulled it down to 29" of vacuum this morning. It's been holding for three hours so I am inclined to whisper that I am leak free.

I think I am just going to dump R-12 back in it though instead of retro-fitting it. The system seems pretty viable right now, so I don't really want to flush it, and change the compressor oil, accumulator, etc. Plus I have the R-12... I'm rolling in it, I am the R-12 pimp.

BUT, I can't find a label that tells how much R-12 it takes.
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1owner88TC Offline
Member
#2
I could check my manuals tonight. My advice is (if you have or can get some), put A/C system dye in before you charge it completely and look for leaks. It could save you from wasting more if you still have a leak.
Then you won't have to whisper it any more.
fun, fun, fun - Justin
3" DP & Cat, Magnaflos, K&N, Magnecor Race wires, Steeda Tri-Ax, SPEC Stage 2 clutch, 3-core radiator.
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Huffin Offline
Junior Member
#3
Well I could go get some dye, I suppose. But it's already evacuated with the gauges hooked up and everything. I think holding 29" for this long is a pretty safe bet.

The ambient temp right now is 90, so I am going to wait until 5pm to charge.
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84Bird Offline
Junior Member
#4
The label on mine is under the hood in the plastic "pouch"
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1owner88TC Offline
Member
#5
My factory Ford manual says a TC system with; HR-980 compressor takes 40 oz +- 2oz. A 6P148 compressor system takes 41 oz +- 1 oz. That goes for Manual air or Climate Control.
fun, fun, fun - Justin
3" DP & Cat, Magnaflos, K&N, Magnecor Race wires, Steeda Tri-Ax, SPEC Stage 2 clutch, 3-core radiator.
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Huffin Offline
Junior Member
#6
Thanks. I charged 42 oz's last night. I had pressures of 31 - 215, and 37 degree F vent temps at idle. Seems to be working pretty well. It seems that the cycle switch is set at 20 psi... I'm not sure that is correct because it doesn't seem to take this system overly long to draw down to that. The ambient temp was pushing 90 too.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
37 deg discharge temp is OK, but a little on the cool side... could lead to evap icing under some conditions. CCPS cutting out at 20 psi is a little low (corresponds to a temp of about 22 deg). If memory serves me, it should cut out around 25 to 28 psi. CCPS is adjustable via screw visible when electrical connector is removed. CW to increase press, CCW to decrease. Every 1/8 turn is about a 2 psi change.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Huffin Offline
Junior Member
#8
Thanks. I was starting to hunt for the set screw, hehehehehe. I've had the car two weeks now and still haven't picked up a manual yet.

I am going to crank it up to 25 and see how it goes. Having the vent temps too low will make my girl bitch about frostbite or something.

Being that the cycle switch has been cranked down, leads me to believe that someone may have tried to retro the car with an el-cheapo kit. I am going to cut the old accumulator apart and make sure it is still intact.
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1owner87tc Offline
Junior Member
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Huffin:
I changed my O rings last night and pulled it down to 29" of vacuum this morning. It's been holding for three hours so I am inclined to whisper that I am leak free.

I think I am just going to dump R-12 back in it though instead of retro-fitting it. The system seems pretty viable right now, so I don't really want to flush it, and change the compressor oil, accumulator, etc. Plus I have the R-12... I'm rolling in it, I am the R-12 pimp.

BUT, I can't find a label that tells how much R-12 it takes.


Hey R12 pimp. Do you still have some for sale. I think I'd rather recharge with R12 than do the conversion. My A/C is fine but have to change the heater core. How much?
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Huffin Offline
Junior Member
#10
That was someone else that had the pounders for sale on here.

I graduated from an RHVAC program back in 1989, and never got into the business. I had all the tools and some freon still in my storage room. One full 30# cylinder of R-12, one partial, and a full cylinder of R-22. I don't really have any way to sell a small quantity though. Plus I am not 608/609 certified and would hate to be cornholed by the EPA.
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