How do I stop my dipstick from blowing out the top?

I've finally pinpointed my oil leak. It's coming out the top of my dipstick tube. Under boost, the dipstick starts to lift out of the tube. I've done several searches on this topic, but can't find one addressing this exact topic. I put in a Motorcraft PCV valve (EV 127A), and I can't blow through the small end, and my leak is not coming from where the tube goes into the bottom of the block. The valve I just replaced leaked when I blew through it. The car actually seemed to perform better at full boost with the new PCV valve, but the dipstick is still getting blown out. All this, and I haven't installed my BoostValve yet. I suppose my problem will worsen when I do that. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...

You have a VERY big problem. Boost is getting into your crankcase. Since you already replaced the PCV valve, here's some more options:

A- Broken Piston, usually the skirt up to the ring land or a melted part from detonation, new motor time.

B- Valve seals/guides shot, time to re-do the head

C- Blown head gasket between cylinder and oil passage, new head gasket needed

D- Center section of turbo blown out, buy new turbo

I would recommed doing both stages of a compression test http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Compr...n_Test.htm

And then do a leak down test;
http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...1;t=018555

Had the same problem, tests revealed blow-by from the #3 cylinder. Badly worn rings as it turned out.

My '85 SVO has this same problem. I've done the tests and everything and I'm pretty sure the valve seals are shot. Mine will actually blast the underside of the hood with oil if you are into the boost heavy.

How's the oil separator/breather on top of the valve cover? When you're under boost that's the only other place for the crank to breath. When mine got plugged I blew out the valve cover gasket and the dipstick.

Thanks for all the help guys... Aerobird, I'm not questioning your expertise, but some of the scenarios you mentioned wouldn't make sense to me, though I don't claim to be an expert...

You have a VERY big problem. Boost is getting into your crankcase. Since you already replaced the PCV valve, here's some more options:

A- Broken Piston, usually the skirt up to the ring land or a melted part from detonation, new motor time.

B- Valve seals/guides shot, time to re-do the head

C- Blown head gasket between cylinder and oil passage, new head gasket needed

D- Center section of turbo blown out, buy new turbo

There doesn't seem to be any problems in the bottom end of my engine. No knocking in the bottom end at all, not even at start up. This would lead me to believe that I don't have a broken piston or skirt. And my turbo seems to spool up well and provides solid, stable power when I'm in boost. This would lead me to believe my turbo is in good condition. Could I most likely rule out these two scenarios?

Scenarios B and C would both be fixed at the same time. If I were to pull the head off and have it reworked, the head gasket would be replaced at the same time. Would a faulty head gasket make detonation happen easier? I've read where some guys run 12* timing in their cars, but mine doesn't like more than 10*. A side note, most guys probably run 93 octane which is a rare find around here. 91 is the most common high octane grade around here. Maybe that's why I'm not able to get that out of my car. Also, I've got what sounds to me like a lifter noise between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM. Maybe it's time to have my head reworked anyway? How much (ballpark) would a machine shop charge to rework my head, and what work should I ask to be done? Is there anything else that I "might as well" do while I have the head at the machine shop? Thanks...

BTW Pete - I haven't had a chance to run those tests yet. I do own a compression tester, but where might I find a decent leakdown tester? Can I rent one from Auto Zone or would I be better off just buying my own? Thanks...

...and one other question. Suppose I make a bracket to lock down the dipstick so that it CAN'T move. Will I spring a leak elsewhere?

Originally posted by ArkieRebel:
...and one other question. Suppose I make a bracket to lock down the dipstick so that it CAN'T move. Will I spring a leak elsewhere?

I tried that and it just filled the turbo and VAM hose with oil instead.