How do I remove the oil feed line.

Ok,, I have a new turbo now for my bird, but I have to also replace the oil feed line to it. I am having a very hard time getting to the bottom of the "T" fitting on the right side of the engine. What all do I have to remove so I can get to it to remove the feed line from it? or is there a way to get to it from under the car? I have reasonably small hands to start with, but there seems to be no room at all to get to it as I have tried. I am looking for any advice on this at all,,, Thanks,,
Kevin

It can be done from underneath the car but it isn't easy. BTDT

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Not only is it hard to get to, it seems to be a mystery sized head. I never seem to be able to get a wrench to fit it tight and not strip it.

I always go from the top and shove my hand through the wires. I think I even removed the dip stick one time to get at it better in a 87-88. You will need to get the wrench on and turn it a tiny bit and then flip the wrench and get a tiny bit more and then flip the wrench and............................................................................................................

Get a 7/16" line wrench (Craftsman calls it a Flare Wrench). It's like a box end wrench with a slot cut into it so you can get it over the "line". It is five sided so it has more grip on the fitting than just an open end wrench.

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Jim Portteus
NATO Member
86 Turbo Coupe, 131K Miles, 140MPH Speedo, Gillis Valve, 2 1/2" Downpipe to 2" Duals w/ 18" Glasspacks, 245/50R16's and new paint.

I just used a small 7/16" open ended, angled wrench. I managed to reach the fitting from the top of the car by relocating the vaccuum tree and a few other electrical attachments (and the oil dipstick tube too, i beleive). I could then get the wrench in far enough to rotate it a few degrees, then rotate the wrench 180º about it's length and rotate the nut the remaining 30º or so. By repeating this, I managed to get the line off after about 20 minutes or so of hand-numbing wrenching.

And just to forewarn you....getting the fitting off is the easy part. Just wait until you try to get the fitting threaded back onto that oil PSU flange. That part took me another few hours of frustration at cursing. So if at all possible, I'd suggest doing whatever you can to retain the stock supply line as long as it's in good working condition.

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maroon 1987 TC 5spd, 128k miles

k&n cone in fenderwell, gillis valve set at 17lbs, kirban adjustable fpr set at 40psi, walbro 255 hi-pressure pump, bosch hi-pressure bypass valve, ported e6

Best 1/4 mile: 14.778 (with 2.198 60' time)
Best trap speed: 94.01mph

Originally posted by tylerport:
Get a 7/16" line wrench (Craftsman calls it a Flare Wrench). It's like a box end wrench with a slot cut into it so you can get it over the "line". It is five sided so it has more grip on the fitting than just an open end wrench.

Thats the tool I use, and I go in from the botom. No way around it being a major PITA.



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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

I just got done replacing the oil feed line to the turbo. The easiest way I found to do it was by removing the throttle body and the upper intake from the lower intake. Then I unbolted the fuel rail and removed the fuel injectors, and tied the fuel rail out of the way. I was then able to get right to the oil line. I could even get a 7/16 end wrench in their.

I forgot to mention that I also removed the dipstick.

Chris and Jim, thanks for those good tips.
The recommendation is to always use a new supply line. It's possible but not proven that deposits in an old line broke loose and blocked oil flow to part of my rebuilt turbo with less than 5K on it and toasted the shaft as well as the bearings. $15 and a couple hours is cheap insurance compared to the possible consequences. Get somebody to help you when installing the line in th epressure manifold. They can help adjust the angles so you can get the fitting threads started.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

If you've got oil all over it(cause the T fittings always leak)A guy here in Vegas makes a new line that taps into the back of the head(hex plug), with a braided steel line to the turbo. It eliminates the T fitting and the oil pressure sender goes where the T was, and no more leaks(one of the causes of my clutch failure). I took off the upper intake and fuel rail when I did the work. "It's nice not leavin' oil spots everywhere I parked!"

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Steve Wagner
Nato member

88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR, 3" exhaust from turbo to tip (high flow cat/ Dynomax Superflo muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" Prime 5 spoke wheels(245/45ZR16 Bridgestones). Workin' on the front mount IC and some exterior mods