North American Turbocoupe Organization



How do I fix this fan issue
RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I installed a Volvo fan from a 740 volvo. It works but it draws a lot of current. I installed a 40 amp fuse in the wiring and periodically it burns out. What should i do to fix the problem?

Here is a pic of a fuse that I had going to fan power. As you can see when the fan kicks on the fuse gets real hot. It gets so hot that the plastic starts to melt and eventually pops the fuse if fan stays on for a long period of time. Do I need a bigger fuse or is there something I can do to fix this issue?

Fuse.....
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...964c0f.jpg

Additional info: The fan is run by an aftermarket adjustable thermastat and not the stock relay
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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zip Offline
Member
#2
Im using the same fan after seeing your install. How are you powering the fan? Im using a parts store fan controller that triggers a relay that feeds power to the fan. I have to check the fuse size im using between the battery and relay, but I'm pretty sure it is a 40 amp fuse. I used the same amperage fuse the was found in the volvo I got the fan from. I havent had any issues in the 6+ months its been installed.

Edit: Its actually a 30amp fuse and I'm running the fan on high.
Matt
86 TC 5spd:QH/SD,Walbro190,CFI 52#, AFPR,WB,FMIC,3"dp to axle, .63 T3, E6,Stock Longblock.
Shelf:N/A 2.3, Die grinder, Carbide Burrs.
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TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Maybe the fan motor is going out on you and pulling more current before it dies? You could always test it with a ammeter new wires and new fuse/fuse holder and heavy duty/amprage switch and directly wire it to the battery (probably similar to how it's wired although that will take any wiring/terminal/plug possible issues out of the equation. It sounded like you had a easy way to get those setups can you just grab another motor for cheap to test, and maybe even buy a new one. Those motors got to be getting old by now right?? not sure the vintage of the volvo.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#4
i had an issue with a RV at my work before, the brake light fuse was getting so hot it was melting. it was a 10 amp fuse. it had a amperage draw of 30ish amps between terminal on the fuse box that comes from the battery, the current out was around 4 amps.
the fuse box had a lot of corrosion in the terminals i couldn't see till i took the terminals out of the box and clean them with my terminal cleaners. cut everything down to 6 total. but i had more electrical issues and the owner finally junked it. the reason for the corrosion was that the roof was leaking. i can only fix so much.
Brian Larkin
88TC 330,000 miles
Slightly Modified
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Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Chip, is that a Maxifuse or a normal run-of-the-mill fuse? If the latter, you probably need to upgrade to a physically larger fuse that can handle the heat of the continuous current draw when the fan is operating.
JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe
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