North American Turbocoupe Organization



hopefully not the walboro...
UglyBird85 Offline
Senior Member
#1
Car drove fine on the way to work. Got off work, car won't start.

Put a brand new walboro 255hp in it less than 1000 miles ago.

Fuel pump is not coming on, no fuel squirts out of the shrader valve, even with the valve stem pushed down while the motors turning over.

Already pressed the fuel pump reset button thing numerous times.

And here is the icing. Filled it up yesterday, only gone about 30 miles. 20+ gallons still in the tank.

Now all I need is for you guys to tell me I don't have to drop the tank lol

What else should I check??
---Justin

87 Burgundy TC 5spd. K&N Cone filter-Walboro 255HP-.60/.63 Garret T3-Gillis @ 18psi.
SHELF: NPR FMIC-Ford Racing 42# injectors-Tripminder-
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UglyBird85 Offline
Senior Member
#2
Oh and now the trunk won't pop open either with the button
---Justin

87 Burgundy TC 5spd. K&N Cone filter-Walboro 255HP-.60/.63 Garret T3-Gillis @ 18psi.
SHELF: NPR FMIC-Ford Racing 42# injectors-Tripminder-
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
If you got an electric gas filler door, switch the leads for the door to the connection for the trunk and push the button. That should open the trunk until you can figure out why the true trunk button doesn't work.

See Jeff article on Fuel PUMP diagnosis for help in finding out why the pump is not running;
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_...ostics.htm
Pete Dunham


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Paulie Offline
Banned
#4
Sir Check the voltage on the inertia switch with a test light. It should come on when the ignition is keyed and time out.(chck it on both wires) If you do not get voltage at the inertia switch move to the FP relay and test cut through battery their. You should have two batterys their. Key and constant.Use jeffs print to trouble shoot this and also try and run the pump from the ALDL connctor. Jeff has a nice print on his troubleshooting page. I have used those pumps with very good results over the years in all kinds of cars and trucks. They are very reliable to say the least. Good luck sir and sounds like a simple problem. Maybe just a bad relay.
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gmaibach Offline
Senior Member
#5
it kinda sounds like a fuse or relay since more than one thing quit at the same time
1988 Turbo Coupe 5 speed Red with Red cloth interior, K&N cone filter, Ported IHI turbo, ATR Header ported, Manual Boost Controller at 18 psi.

2013 Focus ST 2.0 Turbo, Buschur green filter, OCD Speed axle back exhaust.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Quote:Originally posted by gmaibach:
it kinda sounds like a fuse or relay since more than one thing quit at the same time
There is no fuse in the fuel pump circuit. There is no one relay that would effect all those systems.

Maybe have a look at the fuse links.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Paulie Offline
Banned
#7
Sir try and give the fuse links a little TUG. If one is bad it will pull apart. The same battery may just feed both circuits. Not 100% shure because i do not have my prints handy. But its worth a shot. If one of the links is bad you can use an in line MAX fuse holder and an approperiat size maxi fuse wired in place of the link.Thank you gentelman and good luck Sir
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OU812MACH1 Offline
Senior Member
#8
can u hear the fuel pump cycle.... if not try popping in a new relay
o4 mach-1,white,4at 1 of 169 ,MAC air filter and x-pipe, SCT tune / o9 BMW 328 M-SPORT, white, 6at/ 87 Turbocoupe ,white,4at,KIRBAN afr,GILLIS boost valve,Garrett/SVO T3,cold air,3" STINGER down pipe and tail pipe, DYNOMAX ultra flow stainless muffler, Walbro 255L fuel pump,cleaned and flowed injectors,STINGER BOV, built A4LD trans w/all
4x4 Explorer guts, K245/F57FA torque converter.
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