help--replaced head gskt,,now no start

Somebody please help me figure out what the heck went wrong. Quick version of what has happened. Was throwing oil from drivers side rear of head. Tore down engine and replaced part to fix problem, plus head gasket and all the other gaskets. Now the damn thing wont kick over. I ran the test for codes and it keeps giving me code 81, which I can't even find on the list. Car is getting fuel to the injectors and spark to the plugs but, it won't start. I though maybe timing was off but I have checked the placement of the belt and gears and everything is where it is suppose to be. Now , I am lost as to what to do. Please help!!!!! What the heck is wrong?

i had the same problem when i changed my head gasket also. try loosing your dis. and have someone there trying to start it.while you turn it. my timing was off due the head change. and the car started right up. hope this helps good luck

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14.7 @ 90mph
mods: 260 armstrong xp pump,430gears,86 GN turbo,boost controller,9mm motorsport wires
boost gauge, air/fuel

I'd have to agree with rv23tc, it must be timing, cause you have spark and gas.

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Jim Portteus
NATO Member
86 Turbo Coupe, LA3 w/ Intercooler and Larger VAM, Gillis Valve, 2 1/2" Downpipe to 2" Duals w/ 18" Glasspacks, 245/50R16's, 140MPH Speedo and new paint.

when it's at tdc and you have the cam gear mark is pointing to the center mark on the tab, pull the dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap

Does it turn over but just not stay running ? After the timing alignment is correct (what bruno said...), have someone try to start it while you have your hand on the (loosened) dist. If it tries to run but sputters, rotate the dist. (either way) to try and keep it running. Once it starts you can then put a timing light on it and set the timing.

If that doesn't work, make sure all hoses and connections are in place. It's easy to forget something.

Also, one final trick...put 2-3 drops of motor oil in each spark plug hole. It just help on the initial start up. Usually this is done when the pistons have been out...but it's worked for me on hard starting problems too.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

I overhauled my engine about 10,000 miles ago. So I can tell you the timing is tricky. The cam sprocket is marked and should be centered to that plastic tab that sticks out. The crank should have the keyway straight up or you can play with the timing cover and crank pulley to get to 0 TDC. But the sprocket for the distributor is not marked. You can pull the dist and drop it in so as to align with the #1 terminal of the dist cap.Or you can loosen the timing belt and rotate the dist sprocket.
Good Luck, feel free to PM if not clear on anything.
My engine now has new pistons,rings,bearings,hoses,belts,cam, followers,lifters and exhaust manifold. The head was surfaced at the exhaust side and deck. All stock Ford or Motorcraft parts used.

Thanks everyone. It was the timing and now its running great. I appreciate it. Now do make it fly like it should.