North American Turbocoupe Organization



Heater Core Replacement, Please HELP
Gman Offline
Member
#1
I tore out the whole EATC evap box assy to replace both the evap and heater core, since I was replacing the radiator anyway and my core was leaking. After fixing plastic on the temp blend door actuator, and removing 30 years of debris embedded in the old evaporator, I put the box back in, reconnected everything under the hood, but ran out of time to plug in the wiring harness to the evap box.

Now, I have reconnected everything except the plug at the far end of the harness for the floor/panel door actuator. I cannot find the receptacle for it (with the dash still disconnected and steering column dropped. Does anyone have a picture or can tell me where this receptacle is located? I do not want to get back under the hood and remove everything (including that damn spring connector for the A/C hose), just to be able to plug the wiring harness connector back into the actuator. I'm fearful that it is on the back of the box, and I'm screwed.

Thanks, Rob
1987 TC project car
Red butt splice - boosting about a bar
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Rob, check your email.
Pete Dunham


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Gman Offline
Member
#3
If you ever pull out an EATC box, you must hook up the floor/panel connector BEFORE bolting it back to the firewall. This connector is on the driver's side rear corner of the box, and is impossible to get to once the box is bolted in. See attached annotated pic.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
1987 TC project car
Red butt splice - boosting about a bar
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turbo80sdriver Offline
Administrator
#4
I sympathize, and went through the same thing, although, I don't often "air" forgetful things... or least, I think, as far as I can remember,... ha-ha! Anyhow, let the lesson here be that you've built more rapid skills in taking the dash out! The 3rd TC heater core I've done went fairly fast, if not for all the extra's I included whilst it was open - namely, swapping to power antennae, dash speaker upgrades, premium stereo bypass for a nice tight aftermarket head unit, along with Bluetooth mic wire routing. Hey, might as well have! I SHOULD have swapped the blower resistor as well (dang... must have been that momentary lapse of reason again!).
'88 TC-Black T-5 with 79K stock 98.5% original, just w-i-d-e rims and tires, and some under hood powder-coating
'88 TC-Blue w/98K. Stocker w/t-5 ( the resurrection car) top gas mileage =31 mpg!
'88 TC-Grey w/99k. Auto, well optioned, 2nd owner car - getting more options
'87 TC-Blue w/123k t-5 parts car - less of a car now
'88 TC gray- body only so far- very very late factory build dated car, awaiting resurrection
'87 GN w/16.8K
"96 Bronco XLT w/351 (5.8l)
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Gman Offline
Member
#5
Yeah, I don't get embarrassed by making a stupid mistake -- it's not like I replace heater cores for a living. I post only to help someone else avoid the mistake, especially if there doesn't seem to be any documentation concerning the issue.

The postscript is that the car started fine after I got everything back together, but blew the little hose between the core and the shutoff valve after parking it. That's fortunately an easy thing to fix, then it's time for a flush and refill, and an A/C recharge to see if the new evap holds up.
1987 TC project car
Red butt splice - boosting about a bar
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fred k Offline
Senior Member
#6
I appreciate it all. Have to tear mine apart to get rid of the mouse urine smell. Couldn't even use the vent setting driving up to Carlisle and have to have the windows rolled down. Thankfully it's only a 50 minute drive.

Thanks again for the great info, all.

Fred
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