North American Turbocoupe Organization

heater core......its in...but it took to long and forgot....please help
Cracker137 Offline
So i screwed up big time Sad the heater core took more time then i expected, mainly due to working 30-60 hrs plus i can't remember some things ....

Well I can remember where everything goes......for the most part.... except what screws are for what........mainly are the two bottom bolts (on each side of the dash under neath the kick panels) are they the same size as the top ons under the covers? any other notes anyone can remember on which screw sizes go where would be greatly appreciated!

thanks in advance
1987 Thunderbird TC
-T3 Turbo
-3G 130 Amp

Kev Offline
Posting Freak
see here

and this is my personal experience. hope it helps...;p=1
1988 TC 5spd

vinnietbird Offline
Senior Member
I changed the last heater core in my Sport about 3 years ago.It took about an hour.The first two I changed took about 8 hours.It's all in knowing the tricks.
1988 Thunderbird. No details will be given or spoken of.

Paulie Offline
Gentlemen i have worked on more turbo coupes that i would like to admit. But one of the things i learned was to make the heater core a snap to change. I know how to do it by the BOOK and spend many hours doing it correctly. But i once did this only to find the core i installed leaked. It was brand new ford and it had a bad solder joint. Needless to say i have saved some of these to make the job a extremely easy. Here is a section of the fire wall that i save from totalled coupes. Once i cut back the fire wall i scab this piece in and it is totally undetectable. It goes under the fender and behind the valve cover and is hidden. Even at shows people cant tell its their. If by chance you can find a junked coupe cut this part out and save it. Its like a hens TOOTH and it makes the job a SNAP. I also do not like to remove the dash because sometimes the thing develops cracks. Its better off not being messed with. I know people will beat me up for this but it works and once installed its totally hidden. I know i would not do this if the customer wanted to keep the car 100%. But its an alternate option and it works GREAT. Have a good weekend Gentlemen.

Jeff K Offline
Paulie, I have done something similar..... I made a patch panel out of sheet metal to cover the cutout in the firewall when pulling the core out thru the firewall. It is hidden behind the VC, stock IC, and other stuff, and is nearly invisible. No one who has ever looked at my engine compartment (and that includes lots of gearheads) have even noticed it. Next core change will take me well under an hour. One reason I did it is my dash is 100% squeek and rattle free, and I wanted to keep it that way. Another reason is I have 30+ "extra" wires running thru the firewall running various gauges, indicator lights, manual control functions, etc that I really didnt want to disturb.

Whenever I replace a core in any car, I always pressure test the new one by pressurizing it with air to 30 psi and sticking it in a tank of water. Why? I have been bit buy the "leaks brand new out of the box" before. I also reinforce the joints where the pipes are attached to the core with a good think layer (at least 1/4") of JB Weld for extra insurance.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized

Paulie Offline
Jeff sir i figured you for having many control leads. I figure your ECM is isolated ground wise and power wise. I also figured you for a separate injector battery feed and fuel pump. You are an electrical guy for sure. I just cant stand messing with an old cars dash. To much junk and hoses and connectors. This also saves blowing down the AC. My setup requires the ac lines to be discoed. I thought i would get beat up by the purists but it makes perfect sense to punch the hole in the firewall. I also use silicone heater hose and cut the metal hard line way back . This re-leaves the strain on the heater core nipples when the engine torques over to one side. I now always prey check CORES. I learned this the hard way a couple of times. I once had a VW do it to me and learned my lesson after the second time. Well have a good night Sir

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