North American Turbocoupe Organization



heater core??
Pat Fay Offline
Member
#1
Hey, Im about to do the heater core this weekend, so I'll appreciate it if someone answer by saturday, but anyways...who thinks I should just cut a hole in the firewall to get to the heater core, I have access to all the tools I'll need and can easily make a plate to cover up the hole. Or should I just go crazy and try to pull the dash and do it the normal way???? And if I take the dash apart would I need to cut any wires or are they long enough to pull the dash away enough to work? thanks for any info

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Pat
[email protected]
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1987 Turbo Coupe -
~ 250,000+ miles, Engine rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, New front struts, New fuel injectors, Fixed ABS problem (just needed a new relay), Fixed Emergency Brake cable, New Power Steering Rack and Pinion, New Ball Joints, Fixed Oil Pan Leak, New Starter, Lots of Body work, New Windshield, New power steering pump, Fresh coat of black paint, New Lenses for Lights in front, New Fog Lights
Mod's -
~ K&N 6" Cone mounted in front of radiator, JVC Kameleon CD Player, Neon Shifter Knob, Neon Light in back, New Kenwood 3 1/2" and 5 1/4" speakers, New 6x9s, Blackout Lights in front, 2 1/2" chrome tips on exhaust, Gillis Valve set at 15 psi, Single gauge A-Pillar Pod w/ boost gauge...
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Gee Pat, I don't know, that's kind of a personal choice thing. Sort of like should I get a vasetomy or have more children. The vasetomy is quick, easy, small scar, minimal headaches. More children is an invitation to long term committment, lots of frustation, great rewards, hereditary insanity. Would you really want some one like me making those choices for you??

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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Pat Fay Offline
Member
#3
any other opinions?


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Pat
[email protected]
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1987 Turbo Coupe -
~ 250,000+ miles, Engine rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, New front struts, New fuel injectors, Fixed ABS problem (just needed a new relay), Fixed Emergency Brake cable, New Power Steering Rack and Pinion, New Ball Joints, Fixed Oil Pan Leak, New Starter, Lots of Body work, New Windshield, New power steering pump, Fresh coat of black paint, New Lenses for Lights in front, New Fog Lights
Mod's -
~ K&N 6" Cone mounted in front of radiator, JVC Kameleon CD Player, Neon Shifter Knob, Neon Light in back, New Kenwood 3 1/2" and 5 1/4" speakers, New 6x9s, Blackout Lights in front, 2 1/2" chrome tips on exhaust, Gillis Valve set at 15 psi, Single gauge A-Pillar Pod w/ boost gauge...
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Personally, I dont see any problem with going in thru the firewall, especially if you make a nice plate to cover the hole, and seal it well with RTV to keep the water out of the inside of the car. Hell, make a nice stainless plate and polish it... might even look cool. If you do it the right way by pulling the dash, you run the risk of forgetting to reconnect an electrical or vac connector, and risk ending up with new squeeks. When my heater core goes out (notice I didnt say if!!) I am seriously considering going in thru the firewall, especially since I have about 25 extra wires with about 5 more connectors routed to the dash for extra gauges, indicator lights, and switches. Just my opinion.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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GaryS#2 Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Anyone got any pics of where and how much you would cut in firewall?
I was just looking at this the other day and thinking if my core ever went I would do the cut method.
Grocery Getter/Rice Cooker.
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Noname
Unregistered
#6
I had considered the through the firewall method when I was doing my 88 cougar, but with a 5.0 you don't have enough room. So I went ahead a pulled the dash. No biggy! About 3.5 hrs I was ready to go. So that is what I'm doing on my son's 86 TC. I was planning on doing it last saturday but he had something come up at school and didn't come home. Hopefully I'll get this done Sept 29th.

Also remember even when you get the firewall cut, you still have to cut the heater box also to get the heater core out.




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1986 Turbo Coupe, basically stock at this time/ 1988 Cougar LX 5.0/ 1990 Bronco II / 1991 F150 ex cab 4X4
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tylerport Offline
Senior Member
#7
Since your looking for opinions, I would much rather spend the time to do it right. Even though it's going to be frustrating, you can have the satifaction of doing it without cutting up your car. And while your in there, clean out all the debris that's collected over the past 15 or so years.

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Jim Portteus
86 Turbo Coupe, 131K Miles, 140MPH Speedo, Gillis Valve, 2 1/2" Downpipe to 2" Duals w/ 18" Glasspacks, 245/50R16's and new paint.
Jim Portteus
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