North American Turbocoupe Organization



Head Studs or Head Bolts??
John B Offline
Member
#1
I am once again changing my plans for my 88TC. I will be keeping the current GT35 turbo and instead biting the bullet for a Bo-port stage 3 head. To keep some of the costs down, I will be swapping over my current Boport 1.5 cam, roller followers, and HLA's.

The motor will remain in the car so I'm planning to drop the new head on. I will be using the 8993 head gasket to give some leeway of having the stock bottom end untouched. I'm going back and forth on using head studs or head bolts. I like the idea of using some ARP head studs as I can keep reusing them and do have plans to build a stroker motor at some point in the future (big power goals). If I go this route I will make sure to retorque them after the first heat cycle and probably a second time after some driving. I've read some good things about using plain ole TTY head bolts as well. I see that rockauto has the 6pt head bolts but they don't specify if they are TTY. Does anyone have a part number for TTY head bolts? I'd like to have some options and hear everyone's opinions on this.

For my setup, I'm shooting for power beyond 300whp.
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, Boport 1.5 cam, gutted upper, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#2
My 2 cents, go for the ARP so when the fuse (head gasket) goes it will be one less thing to change/buy. It's the cry now instead of later money spending.
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
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gtbird Offline
Member
#3
Head studs are your best bet. As you torque down head bolts, you have to overcome the friction of the bolt head against the cylinder head as well as the stretch that will occur with a bolt. Head studs won’t stretch and the nut is going against a washer, not the cylinder head. Make sure to use the recommended assembly lube and re-torque them after heat cycling.
1988 T/C Silver with red interior, fully loaded except for leather. 5 lug conversion with 97 Cobra wheels, Cobra 13" brakes up front, Mustang brakes out back, Koni adjustable shocks and struts, NOS Koni lowering springs . Maximum Motorsports control arms and caster/camber plates, subframe connectors.
SOLD September 2020. Will miss this car after 19 years of building/driving/showing....time for a new chapter in my life.
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