Haunted car(Long post...sorry)

O K guys...I think my car is haunted. Where to start...uhm...OK...here we go...
I installed an aftermarket sound system(Pioneer super tunerAM/FM/CD)bought the harness needed to hook up the speakre wires and such,got it all installed and it sounded great! That is until I turned up the volume. At which point the unit shut off. It was off for a few seconds and would come back on...and go off again. After turning the volume down,it would stay on. well,sometimes.
So,I come to the list postings and look under the tech articles and VOILA' I find a posting about installing aftermarket sound systems. So,according to the posting,there is a factory amp in the trunk,(attached to the back seat frame)Uhm...NOT on my car. That amp is nowhere in the back seat area. My car did not have the premium sound system tho(No EQ) OK flash forward now to the present time...NOW...it cuts off when you shut the door...or hit the brakes...or turn the wheel to the left. I swear...only the left...NOT to the right. AAAARRRRGGHHH
There are times when sittin at a stop light the car will idle down real low...and it happens too...but sometimes when it idles down...it DOESN'T happen. This is driving me crazy.
Next...when I am driving at night...and hit the brakes...the headlights seem to dim or flicker for just an instant. They do not go out tho(Only the damn stereo does that)
Another "quirk" is this...when the headlights are on and I rotate the wheel to turn on the dome lights,the dash lights go out!! I can remove the key from the switch after it is in the ON position,too.
I know this means the tumbler switch is in need of replacementbut,what about the ignition switch itself? Is it possible that it could be the culprit in some of these problems? I know you guys know tons more about these cars than I do,but I am about to pull my dang hair out at this point.

you may need to uprade to a 130 amp alternator to run all those high wattage electrical items. (stereo + lights + a/c ect) It maybe straining your stuff. That could be why the radio cuts in and out. Others may have a better solution.

Good luck

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Bill Lieder
1988 TC stock until summer

It could be the ignition switch or the connector to it. I have heard of some really strange things with a bad switch. And it's cheap.

OK...here's another twist to the haunted car story...Today when I got in the car...and yes it was idling at the time,I shut the door and the stereo went out GRRRRRRRRRR
So, when I got home I thought it may be a loose wire connection or something like that.So, I pulled the whole works out. Nothing...no loose wires...nothing like that.
I guess to enjoy this damn car and sound system I will have to drive only in a straight line,not shut the door...don't hit the brakes and listen to the sounds at a very reduced level. This car is REALLY pissin me off...if it were a woman I would divorce it...if it were a dog...I would shoot it...

Did your old radio do this?? If not, the raido itself could be defective?

Just a thought

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Bill Lieder
1988 TC stock until summer

I have thought of that,too. No,the original factory sound system did not do it. It was just an AM/FM cassette player...no premium sound no equalizer,etc...It's weird...sometimes it does it...sometimes it doesn't. Earlier tonite when I noticed the gas guage said I had 1/4 tank the low fuel light came on. No big deal...I pull into the station and put in 10 dollars of premium...the damn light is STILL on...grrrrrrrr what next??? Like I said...if it were a dog...I would shoot it

IM GUESING YOU USED THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS AND NOT A ROLL OF ELECTRICAL TAPE.
EVERY OLDER CAR IVE EVER OWNED HAD THE KEY COME OUT WITH THE IGN ON.
ANYWAYS I JUST PUT A NEW IGN SWITCH & TUMBLER IN MY TC TODAY. PRIOR TO TODAY IF I WANTED MY BRAKE BOOSTER,RADIO,AC/HEAT, TO WORK I HAD TO TWIST TWO WIRES FROM THE COLLUMN, EVEN THOUGH THE CAR WOULD START WITH THE KEY.
WHEN I PULLED THE COVER OFF THE COLLUMN THE BOTTOM AND INSIDE OF THE SWITCH FELL TO THE FLOOR. THE SWITHC WAS BURNT WITH MELTED PLASTIC AND THE TOP HALF STILL BOLTED IN.
I ALSO JUST TOPPED MY CAR OFF AND BOTH MY GAUGE AND LIGHT SAY EMPTY.(WTF)

BACK TO THE POINT A IGN SWITCH IS $12.00 AND 2BOLTS IS ALL THAT HOLDS IT IN (YOU WILL NEED TORX 15 BIT WITH HALLOW CENTER)

JUST A HUNCH..DOUBLE CHECK CONNECTIONS AND LOOK FOR + WIRE GROUNDING OUT OR A BAD GROUND
,THE BEST GROUND EVER FOR AMPS,ECT... (WHERE THE SEATBELT BOLTS TO THE FLOOR BOARD)

Sounds like a bad ground on the stereo or a short in the wiring somewhere else. If it was a short in the stereo it'd more than likely have blown a fuse before just shutting off on occasion.

You just have a new head and upgraded speakers? No 4 20's in the trunk and 50,000W of power? [Image: wink.gif]

Originally posted by MOPARMIKEY:
PRIOR TO TODAY IF I WANTED MY BRAKE BOOSTER,RADIO,AC/HEAT, TO WORK I HAD TO TWIST TWO WIRES FROM THE COLLUMN, EVEN THOUGH THE CAR WOULD START WITH THE KEY.

When my ignition switch crapped out, the brake booster, blower, and IVR-controlled gauges stopped working. Everything else was fine.

I'm with the other guys on this one. Any time you get bizarre intermittent electrical problems, it's often that switch. The post-recall switches are junk too, they were redesigned to make fires somewhat less likely, but they still overheat and melt all the time.

All that I did was to remove the old AM/FM/Cassette player(Factory)and install a Pioneer Supertuner AM/FM/CD player. No new amp,no new speakers,etc.I guess the gremlins that be developed an amotional attachment to the old system and now they are punishing me.
How difficult is it to replace the switch and where is it located? Thanks for all the advice and suggestions