North American Turbocoupe Organization



Grinding in reverse?
Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Just got my car going. I installed a new pilot bearing, and a SPEC stage III kit (clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing) and a new clutch fork and bearing collar. And a new T-5 which was said to be in good shape by a guy I know who works on manual trannies for a living. Also a new flywheel. The car feels excellent, even though I didn't step on it. It just feels excellent because I've been driving a minivan for a month [Image: biggrin.gif]

Anyway, shifts great. Just won't go into reverse. The car will be at a dead standstill @ 1000 RPMs and reverse won't engage, it just grinds. I'm thinking the slave cylinder. Could this be it?

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Ryan Harris

1988 TC 5 speed, all options including sunroof. Currently installing: Walbro 255 LPH HP, Star stage III, Kirban AFPR, 3" DP to 2.5" duals, bypassed cat, Magnaflow mufflers Smile
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Asimov Offline
Senior Member
#2
I'm not sure of the exact cause, however I think it has something to do with reverse not being syncronized. It's a very common problem on _MANY_ cars, if the following works:

After coming to a complete stop and pushing in the clutch, put it into any other gear, then into reverse.

Hope that helps.

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-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, [email protected], timing @ 8 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, [email protected], timing @ 12 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Thanks for the reply Asimov, I will be sure to try that first thing tomorrow [Image: smile.gif]

Ryan
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Asimov Offline
Senior Member
#4
After further consideration, I thought I should mention that when I said to clutch it and put it in another gear first then into reverse, don't let the clutch out inbetween the two.
-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, [email protected], timing @ 12 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
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martin0660 Offline
Posting Freak
#5
I also have trouble with mine going into reverse. Sometimes going to another gear first (as noted) works.

What has always worked for me was to pull it toward reverse, the slowly start letting the clutch out. Somewhere in there it will fdrop right in without grindin. As was boted, Its not syncronized.

Bob Myers
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phantom Offline
Member
#6
that is exatcly how i get mine in reverse when it dosent go in right away....slowly let oof the clutch untill you can feel the gears match up....
left right left...the perfect shift...maybe i should call cadience when i bang the gears....
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Turbosnowbird Offline
Member
#7
thats what i have to do with mine. I'm not sure why, i think it might be the pilot bearing, it makes some sketchy noises when i start gettin the RPMs up. But yeah, i shift it into 5th first, then with the clutch still in, i throw it into reverse. Works for me, i've driven a few cars that this works on.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#8
Common characteristic of the T5 tranny. I usually put it up inth 5th gear, and then slowly into reverse. Sometimes I have to repeat a second time to get it to engage reverse smoothly.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Asimov Offline
Senior Member
#9
It would probably be easier on the tranny to use the method I described above, the "let the clutch out till it catches" method means that the very thinest pieces of teeth are catching a considerable amount of force when it engages.

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-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, [email protected], timing @ 8 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
-asi

1986 TC, 132k pretty well taken care of miles. k&n, [email protected], timing @ 12 (spout out), A/C delete. 3" Downpipe (no other exhaust... Whoever described that sound as a "pissed off tractor" hit the nail on the head)

[email pics to asimov at forced-induction org for sales/id/showoff purposes (free hosting)]
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Noname
Guest
#10
Your clutch is new and therefore it's thicker and "fuzzyer" that it should be and it's dragging..When it wears down it should be ok.
Like they said put it in a syncronized gear then put in reverse..
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