Gremlins

Hey everyone. I am a new poster, but an old follower of this site. I have learned a lot about our cars and how to fix them by reading about other members problems. I have encountered a problem that has me perplexed. This will be a long post.

I have a Silver/Raven 88 TC 5-sp which is all stock except for a K&N filter. The car has generally ran well with the occasional vaccuum leak at the IC/Throttle body. Other than that, not too many problems that I could not handle. At thanksgiving, I allowed my step-son to take the TC to college in Daytona, Fl from South Carolina. The car performed well on the trip. After about a week, he called and said the car was cutting out and would not stay cranked. I immediately thought it was a vaccuum leak. I walked him through the repair process over the phone. He was able to get the car to crank, but the idle was very unstable. A plane ticket later, I was in Daytona. I went straight to the parking lot and my baby started right up and idled smoothly. We drove around Daytona for a while with no problems. The next morning, we headed out for South Carolina. Car ran great with no hint of a problem. The next day, the problem was back and became progressively worse. I said all that to say this:
The car is to the point where it will only crank if I put the gas pedal to the floor. It spits and sputters and then will even out around 3K rpms. Sometimes it will hold an idle, sometimes not. When it does hold and idle, it will immediately die if I turn on anything electrical. The turn signal will make it die, the heater fan with make it die, hitting the brake pedal with make it die. It dies even if I am revving the engine. It will rev as long as I keep the idle over 2K.

So far I have replaced the FPR, coil, ignition switch(it was burned inside),TPS and new distributor/module. I have cleaned the IAC, EGR, VAM. I have re-connected the IC/Throttle body hoses and they are tight. It seems and smells to be very rich and will backfire when trying to start. Balck deposits can be seen on the pavement behind the tailpies when it finally cranks. I am at my wits end. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? I tried to pull codes, but I can't keep it running long enough to get up to temperature.

HELP!!!!

Have you checked the timing, spout pulled? I would think so since you mention replacing the distributor/module, but you didn't specifically say so. Plugs may have been fouled but you don't mention replacing them?

Timing and then fuel delivery would the path I would go down. Fuel pressure correct, even though you replaced the FPR it should be checked, see the Tech section. Maybe injectors sticking open.

Like Robert, I'd start with the timing also. See http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/CamTi...t%20Up.htm

Like Robert, I'd start with the timing also. See http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/CamTi...t%20Up.htm

I thought about the timing, but the car will run if I keep the gas to it. However, that would explain the backfire situation. Would this explain the car cutting off at idle when I use the turn signal or hit the brake pedal?

I'm thinking fuel related or clogged cat, possibly both.

Maybe it stays alive when you hold it open because its getting more air.

I'd check the FPR, and injectors- see how long pressure takes to bleed off after key-on priming.

Checked the plugs lately?

Sir check the fuel pressure and spark energy and ALT voltage. Thank You

Thanks Paulie. It had been suggested by my mechanic to check the ALT output. That is the only electrical component I have not checked/replaced. Would this make the car run rich? What other sensors could cause a rich condition? I really feel it must be electrical in nature since the car dies when any electrical load is applied.

Originally posted by natmac3:
I'm thinking fuel related or clogged cat, possibly both.

Maybe it stays alive when you hold it open because its getting more air.

I'd check the FPR, and injectors- see how long pressure takes to bleed off after key-on priming.

Checked the plugs lately?

I just changed the FPR. Have not checked injectors. Could a bad VAM cause this?

I would check alt output first. Low voltage on these cars cause all kinds of problems. If you lose voltage the sensors and pcm get the wrong readings and can cause bad running conditions. The thing that points to that is "when you turn on any accessory it dies".