North American Turbocoupe Organization

Getting my ducks in a row for this turbo rebuild...
Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
Did a LOT of searching today! Have some questions. Here is a quick rundown of what I've found for my situation...

I've never attempted to rebuild a turbo before but from what I've read here and on TF it seems to be pretty straight forward. The only special tools I should need are locking ring pliers, right? I'm rebuilding my stock IHI. I'd go T3 but this is a time matter. Its gotta be done in two weeks 'cause the car has to be driven to NY to return my GF.

-The water lines are not needed. I broke BOTH water lines trying to get them off, they didn't want to come off right and stripped. The line is stuck in the fittings. From what I read, I can get copper tubing from the hardware store and bypass the water cooling. Is that correct?

-Getting the shaft balanced by a turbo shop is OPTIONAL according to what I've read. The reason I have found and am asking about is because people have said that "newer turbos have float bearings, making it almost needless to get it balanced". Has anyone not balanced the shaft and had success??

-I need to use a new turbo to manifold gasket as well as a new oil feed line.

-Turbo break in... Is there a turbo break in? I did a search but found nothing. What should I do to break in the turbo???

Thats all I can think of for now. Anything else I'm missing out on? Anybody want to chime in any advice? Please? [Image: biggrin.gif] Thanks in advance [Image: smile.gif]

Ryan Harris

88 TC, 5 speed, B&M Ripper Shifter, Walbro 190 LPH, K&N, BB IHI, 88K miles
Awaiting install: Volvo FMIC, Walbro 255 HP, Kirban Adj. FPR

[This message has been edited by Ryan H (edited 07-25-2005).]
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3

jmthunderbirdturbo Offline
Posting Freak
if you mean by "bypassing the water cooling" you mean not running coolant lines to the turbo, i would strongly advise against this. the ford engineers are bastards no doubt, but they ran coolant to the turbo for a reason. i may not know what that reason is, but i assure you its important.


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AerobirdMotorsports Offline
Are you crazy?!?! No offense man, but where did you read about it being safe to bypass the water cooling on an IHI? Personally, I would actually mic the shaft play in your old one, and if it is still in spec just install it and go. It is actually very hard to "kill" a turbo, It's just a shaft and some bearings. If you insist on rebuilding, why not just put a new compressor wheel in your recently rebuilt one and be done with it? Especially with dreams of a T3 soon. I really want to help you out so you don't dump a ton of cash into your car uneccesarilly. I can get you the manifold to turbo gasket, the new water lines, and even IHI parts, including a whole good one. It's all regular stuff I keep in stock.

Michael Pinto

1988 Med Red/Red leather 5Spd, all options, getting a fresh motor, BBK 255lph pump, Kirban AFPR, Cruzin' 35#s, AM IC hoses, Gillis Valve, AM prototype cold-air kit, 2' long open exhaust Wink, Optima, 16.48 on 3 cylinders!
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
I read about the bypassing on this site and TF.. Do a search for turbo water lines. How much are your lines? And no offense taken.

I'm on a super small budget and cannot afford expensive lines, etc at the moment so if it comes down to it, I'm just going to bypass the water cooling as mentioned on several posts...

The turbo that is on the car now is toast.. There is in-out and side-side play as well as damaged turbine blades. From what I've read, it is beyond repair aside from getting a new turbine wheel and bearings? In that case I might as well rebuild the better of the two and use it instead.

I'm gonna try running it without rebuilding it tomorrow (the turbo from my wrecked car) and see how it does. If it sounds odd or is letting oil out, my only choice is to rebuild it. I have a 1,820 mile trip coming up in two weeks and this TC is my only mode of transportation- and the trip can NOT be delayed.

Ryan Harris

88 TC, 5 speed, B&M Ripper Shifter, Walbro 190 LPH, K&N, 3.73's, 88K miles
Awaiting install: Volvo FMIC, Walbro 255 HP, Kirban Adj. FPR
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3

Pete D Offline
If you use the same compressor wheel, mark it and the shaft and put it back on the same way - no rebalance. If you put on a new wheel it needs to be rebalanced.
Pete Dunham


Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
Ryan, I remember reading somewhere that the IHI was designed for water cooling and that it's not a good idea to get rid of it. OTOH, T3's work fine without water.

IIRC, the water fittings in the center section are just plain 1/8" or maybe 1/4" pipe threads, so it's not terribly difficult to throw together some fittings and use SS braided for the lines; that's what I did on JR and it works great (looks nice, too).

Good luck, HTH.

Joe F.
JR's Aerie - Our 3 TC's
JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe

bendutro Offline
Junior Member
The last thing you want to see when you're over a thousand miles from home and on a tight budget is smoke pouring out the tailpipe and low oil lights flashing. If your girlfriend has to ride Greyhound, it's better than puking oil out your tailpipe. Hook up the water lines. IHI's are very good turbos, but they need the coolant.

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