North American Turbocoupe Organization



Getting closer, but got no boost
Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#1
I'll need to pick up another vacuum pump for testing....

Need to know some information, as things are scattered around:

a)  Can the turbo spool up with the car in park for a test.  As in, can you goose/increase the throttle and get the turbo to start generating boost.

b)  What is the normal position for the waste gate:  When car is 'off' with no vacuum applied to the waste gate the rod appears to be fully extended.
      Is this the normal  "NO" boost?  (As in, with the rod fully extended you'll have no boost at all.) 

c)   When the car calls for "Boost":  Does this apply vacuum to the waste gate solenoid causing the rod to pull back into the solenoid, and that causes the exhaust to spin 
      the turbo?

Some of the write ups are a bit confusing for a novice like myself.  Granted I used to be a tech many years ago, but my experience is limited with turbo charge systems.

I did have the wife put the car in drive (It's off the ground on all 4 wheels up with jack stands...and we still need to figure out an ABS error)  She put it into drive and increased the speed and rpm up after the engine warmed up a bit.  Kicked it up and noted no boost while doing a rapid acceleration.

I did pull the solenoid that controls the waste gate off the donor car.  Sadly the one end has a busted vacuum line, and it's been broken off for so long it had a spiders nest inside of it.  (I can be quite curious....)  We do need to replace the vacuum lines as well.  Most of the lines are pretty dry rotted, but still able to hold vacuum.

Also I put a set of pliers on the waste gate arm and it does move without signs of it being seized up.  (The one on the donor car was seized and took some effort to come free) 

Just looking for some basic-Maybe a "Dummies Guide to Turbo-coupe Turbo's...."

Thanks all!   Oh, I did locate the trouble shooting section,  The website kicked back a 404 when it tried to redirect.

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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
a) No. The engine needs a load (= larger exhaust flow) to spin the turbo up enough to produce boost. Reving the snot of of the engine in neutral may generate 1 or 2 psi boost but that is about it.

b) WGA works on pressure, not vacuum. WGA rod is fully contracted into the WGA with pressure under 9 to 10 psi (stock WGA) by a spring in the WGA. When applied pressure exceeds 9-10 psi boost pressure overcomes the spring pressure and pushed the rod outwards from the WGA which in turm opens the WG bypassing exhaust past the turbine.

c) As noted above, WGA works on pressure, not vacuum. The spring in the WGA is pretty strong, so trying the open the WG by hand takes a significant amount of force.


Apply 10 or so psi to the nipple on the WGA. The rod should start to extend out of the WGA a little and WG should just start to open. higher pressures, say 15 psi, should completely extend the rod and open the WG significantly. Also, WGA should hold pressure. If it leaks air, it has a blown diaphragm and needs to be replaced.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#3
(03-16-2020, 01:25 PM)Jeff K Wrote: a) No. The engine needs a load (= larger exhaust flow) to spin the turbo up enough to produce boost. Reving the snot of of the engine in neutral may generate 1 or 2 psi boost but that is about it.

b) WGA works on pressure, not vacuum. WGA rod is fully contracted into the WGA with pressure under 9 to 10 psi (stock WGA) by a spring in the WGA. When applied pressure exceeds 9-10 psi boost pressure overcomes the spring pressure and pushed the rod outwards from the WGA which in turm opens the WG bypassing exhaust past the turbine.

c) As noted above, WGA works on pressure, not vacuum. The spring in the WGA is pretty strong, so trying the open the WG by hand takes a significant amount of force.


Apply 10 or so psi to the nipple on the WGA. The rod should start to extend out of the WGA a little and WG should just start to open. higher pressures, say 15 psi, should completely extend the rod and open the WG significantly. Also, WGA should hold pressure. If it leaks air, it has a blown diaphragm and needs to be replaced.
Excellent info.

Oddly enough, right now the car has no exhaust except the converter.  I'm trying to source a muffler and tailpipe.  The car came stock with an auto trans and single exhaust.  So far my usual suppliers as a DIY'er are not working out, and while Rock Auto shows the parts under AP for a brand-  Can't seem to find anything locally.

That does help a great deal knowing how it operates.  I was going to apply a vacuum to the WGA--  That would have been chasing my tail!  So I appreciate the education and knowing it will need to be under load.

Again, my thanks!!

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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Check Stinger Performance for exhaust parts, and lots of other 2.3T parts.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Tedybear315 Offline
Junior Member
#5
(03-17-2020, 01:42 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Check Stinger Performance for exhaust parts, and lots of other 2.3T parts.


Cool!  For the moment we're going "Stock" as we're trying to get this ol' bird on the road soon.  Tell you what!  Trying to find the original single exhaust system this came with has been a challenge.   AP has the part numbers, but everyone else locally only sells "Walker" and nothing in the catalog.  "Bosal" same...  Used a cross reference site for AP to Walker part numbers just to track down the flippen muffler!    Thankfully I did manage to save the "Y" pipe off the donor car.  We tried to extract the complete exhaust, but to badly rusted at the joints.  

Turns out T-Birds of that vintage with a V6 or V8 single exhaust use the same muffler.  It's the tail pipe that is needed for the turbo.  Or at least that is the theory-  I'll be picking up those parts today.  I can rig just about anything exhaust related-  Provided they are new parts.  Old rust and I do not get along.  Or this could be a wild goose chase and a waste of money.  

Told the wife, if we want to change auto to manual-  And go dual exhaust at the same time?  We've got almost all the hard parts.  Depends on how well the A4LD held up being in storage for so long.  It's unusually clean for the exterior.  So I suspect it was rebuilt before it went into storage.  We'll find out.....  The manual along with all the parts is currently in storage.

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