gauges/ignition switch

i have a problem with the gauges in my new bird.
when i first start the car the amp gauge goes all the way up to the C mark and then slowly backs down to a little bit above the middle,
and after the car is warmed up, the temp gauges is right on the r in norm but then everyonce in a while the it will start shooting up to the H and then come back down after about 5 seconds or after a good smack on the dash..
is this gonna be the IVR???? also im replaceing my heatercore and i was droping the steering column i unplugged pigtail from the ignition switch to find that 2 of the plugs in it are melted, its the two in the middle on row closest to the left side of the car could this have anything to do with the gauge problem?? also i just got done removeing an aftermarket alarm that some half assed electrtion put it it was also wired to the ignition switch could that have caused the heat damge i found in the pigtail??? i looked at the switch from my other 88 with over 180k miles and it looks brand new compared to the switch with only 110k miles should i replace the switch and pigtail??? thanks in advance

[This message has been edited by TCEATHONDA (edited 10-10-2005).]

tttt

It sounds like your amp gage and heat gage are working properly. When you start the car you draw the battery down and it recharges when running. You should check the battery as it might be bad and only accept a surface charge. Generally, with a good battery and normal cranking the battery should only require a slight recharge as shown on the gage, not all the way to the C. The heat gage will go up and when the thermostat opens up will drop back down to normal. Smacking the dash is not always a good idea. If the pointer was hanging up tapping the glass would be more appropriate. The IVR problem would be indicated by consistent high or low readings on the temp, oil, and gas gages, usually low. If you are referring to the ignition switch they a known for overheating and in some cases starting fires so it should be replaced.

If the gauge moves back down after rapping on the cluster carefully about 5 times, the IVR is at fault. Mine does the same thing, and the readings on my oil and water temperature as well as gas are -never- accurate. They read high or low at random but often.

If the ignition switch connector and wires are melted, you should replace them. You can get a new connector/wires from www.rockauto.com for cheap. You will need a 250 watt soldering iron or better, my 190 was barely adequate enough to do the job and I wouldn't attempt it again.

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Ryan Harris

88 TC, 5 spd, B&M Ripper Shifter, SPEC Stage 3, Walbro 190 LPH, Kirban, K&N, 3.73 rear, KS disconnected, BCS bypassed