fuel pump replace

I have never done it but am about to. Any tips woould be greatly appreciated.
1)Drain tank,2) remove straps,3) remove filler neck,4)remove hoses + wires,5)remove pump and screen and replace.

Am I on the right track?

Your on the right track. When you get the tank down, the tricky part can be getting the lock ring off. Get all the crud out of the way first. A wire brush is usefull and vacuum it all away from where the opeing will be. If it's rusty, lube up the locking ring well and be gentle tapping it counter clockwise.

Originally posted by kingpin3:
I have never done it but am about to. Any tips woould be greatly appreciated.
1)Drain tank,2) remove straps,3) remove filler neck,4)remove hoses + wires,5)remove pump and screen and replace.

Am I on the right track?

If draining it is a problem or even if the tank is empty, I use my floor jack with a 2 foot square piece of plywood and balance it on that as I slowly lower it. Doing it this way really helps when you go to re-install it. You can raise it and make all the connections about half way up, then snug it into place before you reconnect the straps.

ain't these cars great?

Good luck with your project they are a pain in the a$$!

When you use a wire brush to clean the crud away, make sure you use a brass wire brush. Also use a brass punch to knock lose your lock ring. We don't want to lose anyone from a spark around any gas fumes.

a good thing while you have the tank down is to cut the floor for the next time you have to play with the pump(lets hope you never have to)but i did and man dose it make things nice to change after.but not every one has had my luck with pumps so you may not want to do it.it saves time and effort of having to drop it again

Since you live in the rust belt like I do, you may want to buy a new locking ring (about $10 at Ford dealer) before you start. I have done a few pumps on 15+ year old Fords, and in each case, the locking ring was about 1/2 rusted away to nothing.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

in addition to a new lock ring, pick up a new rubber gasket while your there.

Thanks guys, Ill get on it this week end and hope it works out well.

Thanks for the info!!!

Originally posted by Turbojet:
When you use a wire brush to clean the crud away, make sure you use a brass wire brush. Also use a brass punch to knock lose your lock ring. We don't want to lose anyone from a spark around any gas fumes.

Yep, that was to be my advice too !

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

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