Fuel pressure regulator

My car needs piston rings so I'm in the process of tearing it down. (Right before Carlisle go figure!) On the bottom of the reg. there's a black hose and on that hose there is some sort of connector. I plan to change over to an aftermarket regulator and injectors so I'm trying my best not to damage anything. I bought a Haynes manual for specs and other good stuff and all it said was "remove hose from bottom of fuel pressure regulator" and left me hanging on how exactly to do that. I'm wondering if I need a special tool for that or if there's an alternative. By the way whats the easiest way to get the bottom bolts on the lower intake, should I just leave it on and when I pull the head take it off? Thanks ahead of time. [Image: smile.gif]

Unless you got something none stock, just pull the hose off the FPR. We are talkijng the thing on the front of the fuel rail that has a hose going to the upper part of the upper intake??

Leave the lower intake attached until the engine is out of the car

No at the back of the fuel rail near the fire wall...is that not the fuel pressure regulator? It has A black hose that goes down about 2-3" to a silver connector type device. After that it goes down a bit further then shoots towards the rear of the car

Originally posted by brizzle88tc:
No at the back of the fuel rail near the fire wall...is that not the fuel pressure regulator? It has A black hose that goes down about 2-3" to a silver connector type device. After that it goes down a bit further then shoots towards the rear of the car

That would be the Fuel Pulse Dampener. There are two hoses. One is from the Fuel tank and one is the return line t the tank.

The FPR is on the front of the fuel rail. Got to the Tech Section from the NATO home page and look for the pic of sensors, etc.



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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

Like dan said, the thing on th eback is the dampner and the lines are the fuel supply and return. You need one of those garter spring tools (like the A/C lines) to remove those things. Or you can disconnect them down at the bottom back of the drivers side of the engine compartment

Originally posted by Pete D:
Or you can disconnect them down at the bottom back of the drivers side of the engine compartment

Choose that option ! The garter spring connectors are a Royal PITA !

Just remove the plastic clips that secure the hoses to the metal fuel lines and pull them apart.

Make sure that the fuel isn't under pressure first !

Don't worry about getting the right hose back on the right metal fuel line...they are two different sizes (polarized) and you can't get them backwards.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished C. Chambers, Gutted&Polished Upper, Ported&Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Forge BPV, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Nose, Gillis Boost Valve, Spec Stage II Clutch Stage III P/P, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump.

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

Go ahead and destroy the plastic clips that hold the hose onto the metal line like Dan E said. One (low pressure side?) is a hairpin clip, you've probably seen millions, they pop right out. The OTHER is a "duck bill clip". Can't explain it but you'll know why. Take the remnants to your trusty auto parts store (or dealer for $7 and this time it's right) and get another one of both.

I took the 2nd option and went under the car and took out those two clips no problem, only broke one! I see exactly why they call it a duckbill Matt, but I dont think I'd want to explain it to someone at the parts shop. What caught me was that on all the cars I've owned the FPR was on the rear of the fuel rail. The dampener is new to me. Oh well I try to learn something new everyday, as you can see I'm not the most knowledgable person. Thanks a bunch guys.