North American Turbocoupe Organization



Fuel Pressure Regulator
Hybridbird Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I think I'm gonna tackle this job tonight,mostly out of need,not want,it's snowing out.Any secrets I need to know before I start or any special tools?If I get one that adjusts to automatically to boost,do I need to make any adjustments to it myself after install,or will it set itself??

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Too much fun, what's that mean?That's like too much boost,there's no such thing.
"Finch....get the f*ck away from that Ficus......that's a jizz-free Ficus!"
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SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Quote:Originally posted by Hybridbird:
I think I'm gonna tackle this job tonight,mostly out of need,not want,it's snowing out.Any secrets I need to know before I start or any special tools?If I get one that adjusts to automatically to boost,do I need to make any adjustments to it myself after install,or will it set itself??

The only "special" tool you'll need is an allen wrench (i forget which size) to remove the 3 screws holding the regulator to the fuel rail. Just take off the intercooler and upper intake as you normally would, then use a 10mm socket to remove the fuel rail from the lower intake. Tug gently on the fuel rail to pull it away from the injectors and then you should have easy access to the regulator.

Did you buy an adjustable fpr? if so, it would be best to find a fuel pressure gauge and set the pressure (by twisting the center threaded peice with an allen wrench) to around 40lbs. If it has no adjustment screw and only the vaccuum port, just reassemble everything and you should be set to go. Good luck.

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maroon 1987 TC 5spd, 128k miles

k&n cone in fenderwell, gillis valve set at 17lbs, kirban adjustable fpr set at 40psi, walbro 255 hi-pressure pump, bosch hi-pressure bypass valve, ported e6

Best 1/4 mile: 14.794 (with 2.17 60' time)
Best trap speed: 94.01mph
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#3
DON'T FORGET TO RELIEVE THE FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE FPR !!!!

Use either a Fuel Pressure Gauge on the Schrader Valve with a relief valve and hose...or wait at least 1-2 hours after it ran last (still a good idea to check the pressure).

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
No need to remove the IC and upper intake to replace the FPR!!!!!!!!!! Also no need to loosen the fuel rail!!!!!!!!!!!! Replacement is a 15 min job, at the most..... nothing needs to be removed to get at the FPR. One of the allen bolts is a bit of a PITA to get to, but not really that bad. If you buy a stock type replacement, no adjustment is needed. If you buy an adjustable FPR, you MUST have a fuel pressure gauge to set it up.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

[This message has been edited by Jeff K (edited 02-26-2002).]
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
If you cut about 3/4 inch off that allen wrench and put it into a socket of the right size (1/4" drive) you can get the regulator off without having to pull the intakes or fuel rail. You will need to check /adjust the initial setting of the regulator. For your setup shoot for 38-40 psi initial.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Quote:Originally posted by Jeff K:
No need to remove the IC and upper intake to replace the FPR!!!!!!!!!! Also no need to loosen the fuel rail!!!!!!!!!!!!


I knew my instructions to remove the ic and intake didn't sound quite right to me for some reason (I was indiscriminantly summarizing the instructions that came with the regulator). I did, however, end up temporarily removing the fuel rail. It added an extra 4 minutes to the job but allowed me to loosen that third screw without chopping up any tools or busting up my big, goofy hands.

[This message has been edited by SteveX82 (edited 02-26-2002).]
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi
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