North American Turbocoupe Organization



Fuel Line Sizes, and brake proportioning valve
Cracker137 Offline
Member
#1
Big Grin 
Hello Board!

It has been a pretty long time for me, in fact long enough for a marriage, 2 kids, and loss of a parent; it has been an interesting few years. Anyway I have finally been able to get back to my poor bird who when i last drove her had the exhaust fall off, and the brake line bust from the valve to the back.

Well while I was working on this, the other two lines burst in the back , yay rust, and now this last time when i clicked the key to check for brake leaks, the fuel line went (I was looking at them wondering how long they would hold). Now this leads me to three questions I am looking for some help on.

1. For the fuel lines what are the sizes of each for the fuel and return?
2. Should I worry about replacing with metal lines, or just go nylon the whole way?
3.For the brakes I have gotten to where it is still leaking no matter what I do from the brake proportioning valve, I did check the same line that leaks tight there, does not leak in another spot, I am pretty sure I messed up the valve and cant get it to seal. Anyone run into this or something similar? Is there any tips and tricks to changing this thing easier?
1987 Thunderbird TC
-T3 Turbo
-K&N
-3G 130 Amp
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#2
Cracker, welcome back. I know what I would do if this was my Bird. I would run new steel or stainless steel fuel lines and replace all of the brake line including hoses if I was going to be driving on a regular basis. This is just a good piece of mind for myself. As for the leaking proportioning valve, I would replace it with either a used one or buy a new one if possible, if the threads got screwed up then it will not tighten enough to hold a seal anyways. The fuel line sizing, that I do not know, but someone on here should know that. Best of luck.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, BBK AFPR, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#3
(04-11-2020, 01:52 AM)Cracker137 Wrote: Hello Board!

It has been a pretty long time for me, in fact long enough for a marriage, 2 kids, and loss of a parent; it has been an interesting few years. Anyway I have finally been able to get back to my poor bird who when i last drove her had the exhaust fall off, and the brake line bust from the valve to the back.

Well while I was working on this, the other two lines burst in the back , yay rust, and now this last time when i clicked the key to check for brake leaks, the fuel line went (I was looking at them wondering how long they would hold). Now this leads me to three questions I am looking for some help on.

1. For the fuel lines what are the sizes of each for the fuel and return?
2. Should I worry about replacing with metal lines, or just go nylon the whole way?
3.For the brakes I have gotten to where it is still leaking no matter what I do from the brake proportioning valve, I did check the same line that leaks tight there, does not leak in another spot, I am pretty sure I messed up the valve and cant get it to seal. Anyone run into this or something similar? Is there any tips and tricks to changing this thing easier?

Agree 100% with Kuch.

Also, let me throw this out there. The lines that run into the ABS valve body must be unique in that they are INVERTED flare—i.e. what are also known as BUBBLE flares. Now, two of these connect the ABS unit to the Proportioning Valve: the one closest to the firewall, or rear one, runs to the Right Front Brake Cylinder; and the center one, which runs to the Rear Brakes. The one closest to the front of the car runs directly to the Left Front Brake Cylinder. Regardless, they are all INVERTED (Bubble) flare.

AFAIK, this is the only place where you’ll find those. The rest are all DOUBLE flared.

NEVER use or substitute SINGLE flared tubing. You might as well brace for impact right now.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Cracker137 Offline
Member
#4
Thanks Kuch! I will go with the the metal lines. I actually have finished all but the two brake lines in the front.

anasazi4st you have to be kidding me, I didn't notice the difference and figured it was all the same (I looked at the end of the line goes to the back and saw a double flare, and been double flaring everything! That explains why it wont seal! Thank you!

I do have a replacement valve I was getting ready to swap in, but I think I will bubble flare first to see if I got lucky and just didn't put the right flare on.
1987 Thunderbird TC
-T3 Turbo
-K&N
-3G 130 Amp
Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#5
(04-21-2020, 10:45 AM)Cracker137 Wrote: Thanks Kuch! I will go with the the metal lines. I actually have finished all but the two brake lines in the front.

anasazi4st you have to be kidding me, I didn't notice the difference and figured it was all the same (I looked at the end of the line goes to the back and saw a double flare, and been double flaring everything! That explains why it wont seal! Thank you!

I do have a replacement valve I was getting ready to swap in, but I think I will bubble flare first to see if I got lucky and just didn't put the right flare on.

I have accidentally installed double flared lines instead of inverted ones on the ABS unit...and they seemed to seal okay. But, I think I was working with borrowed time. Once I discovered my mistake I quickly corrected it.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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