I spent the past week or so rebuilding the front suspension in my 88 TC, and I thought I would share my experience with you all. I already rebuilt the rear with Koni STR-t's, MM adjustable LCA's, and new Moog CC821 springs. Finally got the front done too. New Koni STR-t's, new BMR SP028 springs, new Moog ball joints, new moog tie rod ends, new Energy suspension sway bar bushings, and new Energy Suspension control arms bushings. Taking it all apart was a breeze, nothing cosmic about it, but when I started on the pass side control arm bushing, that's when the fun starts. I will be honest, these were a pain to get out. I used the drill bit and cold chisel method as opposed to using the torches to burn them out. Each control arm took about 2 hours of drilling, hitting, cutting, prying, swearing, and that was just to get the rubber out. Once out, there was some rust built up in the bushing retainer so I had to clean these up as well. A small 2" wire brush on my corded drill, a battery drill would not cut it, and a small grinding stone to smooth out the rusty areas. Each arm took about 3 hours to get them ready for a quick go over in the bead blaster. I also used a chisel to break off all the large rust scale off of the spring cups as the build up was pretty severe. Putting the bushings in was easy and only the large ones needed a little push from the ball joint installer. The Maximum Motorsports CC plates went in simple, but I did have to smooth out the underside mounting area so that the plates moved smoothly. New Koni struts went in easy as well as the new BMR springs with new ProThane isolators. Removing the original ball joints required the use of my 20 ton press to get them out and install the new ones. Tie rod ends, simple, slightly loosen the nut, remove tie rod, install new one.
For the sway bar bushings, I couldn't use the brackets as supplied by Energy Suspension as they were too short, had to reuse the factory ones. I did however modify the factory ones by installing a Zerk fitting in each one so that I could still grease the poly bushings. Once I got everything installed I pulled it onto some ramps and tightened down the control arm bolts and the sway bar end links. I pulled it out and checked everything over, took it for a quick ride around the block and returned home. Checked the ride heights, I feel with these springs, it sits a tad too low in the front, even with the new Prothane Iso's. I may get some Steeda spring spacers to raise it about .5", then it should be about perfect for me.
Next stop is the alignment shop next Friday, but the quick ride gave me a quick impression of the Koni's and the Energy Suspension control arm bushings. Many think that these are too stiff and ride harsh for a street car, this is not what I feel driving. It simply feels tighter and more stable. I highly recommend the Koni's as well, they handle much better than my old PRC's. After the alignment next week and I still decide to go with some of the spacers, I will give a quick post on that as well. If anyone has questions on this suspension rebuild or my pics, let me know.
For the sway bar bushings, I couldn't use the brackets as supplied by Energy Suspension as they were too short, had to reuse the factory ones. I did however modify the factory ones by installing a Zerk fitting in each one so that I could still grease the poly bushings. Once I got everything installed I pulled it onto some ramps and tightened down the control arm bolts and the sway bar end links. I pulled it out and checked everything over, took it for a quick ride around the block and returned home. Checked the ride heights, I feel with these springs, it sits a tad too low in the front, even with the new Prothane Iso's. I may get some Steeda spring spacers to raise it about .5", then it should be about perfect for me.
Next stop is the alignment shop next Friday, but the quick ride gave me a quick impression of the Koni's and the Energy Suspension control arm bushings. Many think that these are too stiff and ride harsh for a street car, this is not what I feel driving. It simply feels tighter and more stable. I highly recommend the Koni's as well, they handle much better than my old PRC's. After the alignment next week and I still decide to go with some of the spacers, I will give a quick post on that as well. If anyone has questions on this suspension rebuild or my pics, let me know.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low