North American Turbocoupe Organization



Front suspension rebuilt part 1......
Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#1
I spent the past week or so rebuilding the front suspension in my 88 TC, and I thought I would share my experience with you all. I already rebuilt the rear with Koni STR-t's, MM adjustable LCA's, and new Moog CC821 springs. Finally got the front done too. New Koni STR-t's, new BMR SP028 springs, new Moog ball joints, new moog tie rod ends, new Energy suspension sway bar bushings, and new Energy Suspension control arms bushings. Taking it all apart was a breeze, nothing cosmic about it, but when I started on the pass side control arm bushing, that's when the fun starts. I will be honest, these were a pain to get out. I used the drill bit and cold chisel method as opposed to using the torches to burn them out. Each control arm took about 2 hours of drilling, hitting, cutting, prying, swearing, and that was just to get the rubber out. Once out, there was some rust built up in the bushing retainer so I had to clean these up as well. A small 2" wire brush on my corded drill, a battery drill would not cut it, and a small grinding stone to smooth out the rusty areas. Each arm took about 3 hours to get them ready for a quick go over in the bead blaster. I also used a chisel to break off all the large rust scale off of the spring cups as the build up was pretty severe. Putting the bushings in was easy and only the large ones needed a little push from the ball joint installer. The Maximum Motorsports CC plates went in simple, but I did have to smooth out the underside mounting area so that the plates moved smoothly. New Koni struts went in easy as well as the new BMR springs with new ProThane isolators. Removing the original ball joints required the use of my 20 ton press to get them out and install the new ones. Tie rod ends, simple, slightly loosen the nut, remove tie rod, install new one.
For the sway bar bushings, I couldn't use the brackets as supplied by Energy Suspension as they were too short, had to reuse the factory ones. I did however modify the factory ones by installing a Zerk fitting in each one so that I could still grease the poly bushings. Once I got everything installed I pulled it onto some ramps and tightened down the control arm bolts and the sway bar end links. I pulled it out and checked everything over, took it for a quick ride around the block and returned home. Checked the ride heights, I feel with these springs, it sits a tad too low in the front, even with the new Prothane Iso's. I may get some Steeda spring spacers to raise it about .5", then it should be about perfect for me.
Next stop is the alignment shop next Friday, but the quick ride gave me a quick impression of the Koni's and the Energy Suspension control arm bushings. Many think that these are too stiff and ride harsh for a street car, this is not what I feel driving. It simply feels tighter and more stable. I highly recommend the Koni's as well, they handle much better than my old PRC's. After the alignment next week and I still decide to go with some of the spacers, I will give a quick post on that as well. If anyone has questions on this suspension rebuild or my pics, let me know.


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1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#2
Nice work!

What made you decide to change the front springs from the GT '04 to the BMR SP028? Higher spring rate?

Looking at all this makes me wonder if I should just go with the MM arms and coilovers when I replace the PRC's. Beating those bushings out is a PIA!!!
I was lucky on my '79 Bird that my buddy was a mechanic and helped me do the job (we had a lift!).
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#3
Yes, higher spring rates than stock. If I could find some Mach1 or Bullet springs, those would be nice too and those are 600#, the SP028's are 525#, but for $110 for these BMR's, I'm happy with them. Coil overs would be the best in my opinion and my ultimate goal, but way more pricey than my set up currently. I did notice that some of my fender levels are different between corners, looked online, and found that Foxbody cars are notorious for non symmetrical body leans. Mine has it, check this forum out, lots of good reading, Bottom line, coil over in the fronts eventually seemed like a fix for it. https://www.corral.net/threads/what-if-y...ide.64573/
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#4
Thanks for sharing the rate numbers.

I am guessing that the suspension mount points have are not very exact location wise but within tolerance when they assembled these cars. All new rear control arms on my car and there still a small difference in level (only noticed because I measured it). I am curious on how you like those springs after alignment and some miles on the car.

Me messing with the front suspension won't happen this year. My budget is done for car spending until next year.
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
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