Fresh rebuild problems (Mr. Leavitt read me)

That's awesome Pete! That's exactly what I needed to see, I had no idea how I was going to modify that thing.

Just about 109K miles when I took it apart. Previous owner said he rebuilt it but I couldn't tell so I imagine it wasn't a very good one.

I'm going to stick with the original plan, test the fuel pressure while driving, then I'll address the valve train noise by checking the clearances.

Sounds like I should replace those springs on principal alone? :confused:

I'm still not sure where my fluttery vacuum fits in to this

Should I be able to hear the fuel pump whining while the car is idling?

Hearing the pump at the rear of the car and hearing the pump whine are two different things. If it is whining, it's probably on the way out. I had a whiner years ago and on the advice of others here, I changed it before it failed completely.

If the vacuum changes of flutters with a specific frequency at idle, it usually indicates a sticking valve.

If the car is not breaking up at higher RPM and subsequently running on 3 cylinders for a few seconds afterwards, I'd look somewhere other than the springs. Seems to me that yours is not doing this. Coupled with the noise and the vacuum readings, I'd be pulling the valve cover to check the cam and followers for wear.

Ok guys, valve train noise is gone. I can't hear any valve train like noise at all anymore.

I called the machine shop, he said he did a full head rebuild and would have caught worn guides, etc.

Currently, the vac gauge flutters from 12 to 15 now, much lower than the first 2 start ups.

I can free rev the engine all I want, but will bog over 4K with a load on it.

If I am cruising and attempt to quickly accelerate, the vac gauge swings all over the place. It will hold a stead 10psi +/- when the turbo spools.

I am busy at work all week, but will have time to get hard numbers by Thursday evening for compression and leak rate.

Machinist seems to think mechanical timing is off and I have read 2.3 will run fairly impressively out of time?

Could this be a spark issue? I haven't touched the PIP or TFI yet and knowing the condition of this engine prior to rebuild, it could probably use new ones..

Thanks for your help guys!!

Edit:
Following the instructions on this website:
http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/

The 2 harnesses I'm looking for are by the ignition coil on the driver side? I just jump those and count the flashes?

There are 3 articles on the Old Tech Articles - Electrical Section on it, including one on how to do from inside the car for not much effort or money.

http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/In_Car_Co...rCodes.htm

Ok guys I think I'm on to it

It clears up the idle at 30+ degreeing to timing advance. With the spout in it runs like crap.

That's got to mean something!

Timing is set with the spout removed. It should be set for 10-12* BTDC (advanced). When the spout is reinstalled, timing will increase automatically by 17 to 20*. If this is where your timing is at, it's good. If the car is not running/idling right, it's not ignition timing. Did you check cam timing FIRST?

Yes spout out for timing adjustment, then when I put the spout in, idle vacuum gets worse.

Checked cam timing first. TC on the crank pulley and cam timing mark lined up, rotor near #1 spark plug.

Is it possible to be on the crank TC marker for another cylinder?