North American Turbocoupe Organization

flushing oil pan with fuel oil while on car
jtmbristol Offline
My 88 has about 100k miles. The oil starts looking dirty only about 1500 miles after a change. I run Mobil 1.
Thinking the pan has gunk in it, I was wondering about trying to flush the pan without the hassle of removing it by draining the oil and then pouring fuel oil in and letting it set in the pan for a while(day or 2) and repeat till it comes out pink.
Obviously I will not be running the engine during this period.
Would this be worth the effort ? Would it even be wise to attempt ?
88 'Bird, 5spd, .63 T-3, ported E6, 3" into dual 2 1/2 exhaust, 1.89/1.59 valves with Boport 1.5 cam, Ram Powergrip clutch, stock IC.

gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
Honestly, if it were me and you plan on having it sit, Id drop it and take a look at everything anyway
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.

Tom Senior Offline
If the oil starts looking dirty that is good. The oil is suspending the dirt and when you drain the oil it comes out. That is the cleaning effect of a good oil. Its like when you wash your dirty hands the soap and dirty watter goes down the drain and your hands are clean. The oil you are using is working perfect. I would not recommend flushing because it might dislodge to much contaminates in the system. Just keep on changing your oil i think your engine is pritty clean if it takes 1500 to darken the oil.

Pete D Offline
Oil is always going to get darker, no matter how "clean" the engine with a gasoline engine. No matter how tight the seal, burned and unburned gases are going to get by the rings, especially in colder weather with longer times in rich (cold start) mode. +1 with what Tom said
Pete Dunham


bgjohnson Offline
If you really want to flush it, maybe do a few oil changes in a short period of time. Like 2 in 500 miles.

Or ( I have not done this but know it works ) Drain it, put trans fluid in it. Let it idle for 5-10 minutes without revving or driving it. Drain. Put cheap oil in it, drive for 500 miles, drain then put your good oil in it.

Sounds like your normal for a turbo car.
89 mustang 408 TT
Project 2.3T fairmont wagon DD

OU812MACH1 Offline
Senior Member
try changin the oil with what ever u normally run. then put in Z-MAX in the motor. it breaks any carbon down s l o w l y not like other flushes that clump up in the oil pan.. use good filters and change them about every 500 miles to get rid of the floating matter in the oil u see the oil getting cleaner lengthin the oil change intervals....its simple and it works!!!!
o4 mach-1,white,4at 1 of 169 ,MAC air filter and x-pipe, SCT tune / o9 BMW 328 M-SPORT, white, 6at/ 87 Turbocoupe ,white,4at,KIRBAN afr,GILLIS boost valve,Garrett/SVO T3,cold air,3" STINGER down pipe and tail pipe, DYNOMAX ultra flow stainless muffler, Walbro 255L fuel pump,cleaned and flowed injectors,STINGER BOV, built A4LD trans w/all
4x4 Explorer guts, K245/F57FA torque converter.

jtmbristol Offline
Thanks for all the input gents. I know motor oil will get dirty looking after a while, this just seems a little quick as compared to other cars I have owned.
88 'Bird, 5spd, .63 T-3, ported E6, 3" into dual 2 1/2 exhaust, 1.89/1.59 valves with Boport 1.5 cam, Ram Powergrip clutch, stock IC.

TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
A turbo engine will dirty the oil quicker than NA engine due to additional blow-by under boost... Don't worry about it...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed

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