Fixing up my TC

I need a list of everything you would do to a 150,000 mile TC if you assume that it hasnt had anything replaced for a LONG time (neglected by previous owner/s).

I know I need to replace the timing belt, but what about the sensors, VAM, IAC, O2, TPS, etc? I know a lot of these things may not be bad now but what about 1000 miles from now?

I'd only replace sensors on an as-needed basis. Otherwise, you're really just throwing money away.

I'd stick to your basic tuneup (plugs, wires, dizzy cap & rotor). Check all hoses, brakes, wheel bearings, u-joints, and suspension components such as ball joints and swaybar end links (I've had two snap on me). Change the oil (and the coolant if you're feeling ambitious). It also couldn't hurt to change out the trans fluid and even the rear-end oil for some synthetic if you're up for it. The rear end fluid change can be awfully messy, but the trans fluid is a peice of cake (relatively speaking).

Just to be on the safe side, you might want to slap a big ole' hybrid on there in case the ihi is on it's way out

Brakes: brand new rotors and calipers on the back, front rotors cut, new pads all the way around.

wheel bearings were good

new plugs wires cap and rotor, though im gonna be replacing the wires again soon, the autozoo's are POS. one broke, and I have to run a wire that was on my cleveland motor to get it to not bog out, and that wire doesnt snap onto the dizzy terminal.

Oil has been changed a few grand ago with walmart synthetic 10w-30, its looking dirty though so another change here soon. Coolant was drained and replaced when I changed the t-stat, though it wasnt flushed. Trans fluid was changed with semi-synthetic.

Some of the vacuum hoses are a bit old and ratty looking, especially the one going from the turbo inlet to that little module in front of the passenger fender. Vacuum was 18-19 at idle though.

Power steering is noisy, sometimes really bad. Drivers side tierod boot has a tear in it. AC is non fuctioning, whether its dead or just needs charged, I dont know. If its dead I want to gut it, its unneeded weight.

Oh yeah theres ticking coming from under the valve cover. I know at 150,000 miles the non-roller cam is probably well worn in, so I want to replace it with a ranger roller and also replace the rest of that part of the valvetrain.

I would really like to start tacking on the goodies like a boostvalve and an exhaust and such but I want to get the car running perfect first.

Oh I forgot to mention, my clutch is REALLY firm. So firm that I cannot drive my dads ranger because its clutch is so light that I constantly stall it. As far as I know it engages and disengages fully, but the pedal is just really firm. It takes a lot to push the pedal down.

Stay with all motorcraft parts.

I recommend a motorcraft PCV valve too.

I think ECT and ACT are worth the few bucks - napa brand worked fine for me. Since these help calculate how the car runs..good to rule them out for the next 10 years. Same with O2.

If your TPS and VAM don't have any flat spots or spikes then you're fine on those for now.

Yeah when I get some decent money I plan on replacing things like that.

I have a random miss at idle that I will assume is the cheap autozoo plug wires. Not to mention that it almost never idles perfectly. Perfect being 1500 cold and 1000 hot.

Originally posted by Matt S:
I think ECT and ACT are worth the few bucks - napa brand worked fine for me. Since these help calculate how the car runs..good to rule them out for the next 10 years. Same with O2.

If your TPS and VAM don't have any flat spots or spikes then you're fine on those for now.

Matt not to be a stick, I just changed my NAPA ECT b/c it took a crap. It was sticking in spots. I was also getting poor idle and stalling out at idle. I changed this Sensor out back in february trying to fix my code 42 so it wasnt that old.

I went to ford for the ECT b/c they had it that day, I paid 45 bucks for it but rockauto.com had it for 26 i believe. I would try to get the motorcraft part since they seem to be better. It cleaned my idle stopped the stalling and my fans work again.

If you can hit rock auto for everything, belts, ignition stuff and shipping will be cheaper. the wires are like 17 bucks I think. plus we have a discount code in the part numbers section.

I just ran KOEO codes and got a 23 for TPS, 41 for lean condition, and 65 for VAM voltage. Guess I will set the TPS tomorrow (3rd time) and check out the VAM.

What do i do with the VAM?

Originally posted by bhazard:
I just ran KOEO codes and got a 23 for TPS, 41 for lean condition, and 65 for VAM voltage. Guess I will set the TPS tomorrow (3rd time) and check out the VAM.

What do i do with the VAM?

this should tell you if the vam is toast
http://image52.webshots.com/152/3/78/69/...xsl_ph.jpg