North American Turbocoupe Organization

fixing lifting window switch plate.
RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
The previous owner bent the metal plate that has the labels on it. I am talking about the plate that says up or down, and so forth that is right in between the seats and behind the shifter. I tried super glue but it wont stay down. Is there anything you can suggest?

1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!

Senior Member
What i did was pealed it off cleaned the back really good. Then i used 2 layers off painters tape to cover it. Then used a rolling pin to flatten it back out. I did the small curve by hand when lining back up. Used epoxy glue to put back.
86tc 5speed k&n, gfb boost controller, autometer gauges, tripminder, fmic, and upgrading as fast as possible

Dan S Offline
Post it in the parts wanted forum, I'm sure someone has one laying around. If you can't find one, there's a member here in PA who will find one for you.

Bill Bailey; [email protected]
Dan S
Custom 88 TC, Mandarin Copper Pearl Metallic
1972 Ford F-100 SWB Styleside
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Protouring442 Offline
If it's as clean as it looks to be in the photo, I'd say that it is worth trying to save.

1) Remove the console top from the car, and remove all switches from the top.

2) Bend the aluminum tabs to allow the aluminum plate to be removed.

3) Using 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, remove the aluminum from the plastic base. Keep squirting the adhesive remover under the aluminum, let it sit for a few minutes, then gently pull on the aluminum until it is fully removed.

4) Using the adhesive remover, clean both the back of the aluminum plate, as well as the plastic base.

5) Gently "tweak" the aluminum plate to fit the contours of the plastic base.

6) Tape off the plastic base so you can spray adhesive on the area where the aluminum plate sets without getting the adhesive on the rest of the base. Use a good grade of masking tape!

7) Tape the plate face down to a piece of cardboard by taping around the perimeter of the BACK of the aluminum plate. Only tape in about 1/8" on the plate. Do the same on all of the switch holes.

8) Using a good heavy duty spray adhesive, spray several thin coats on the back of the aluminum plate and on the plastic base. The operative words here are THIN and SMOOTH!

9) Allow the adhesive to set the recommended amount of time before removing the tape from both pieces.

10) Lay a piece of cellophane gently across the plastic base, then set the bottom tabs of the aluminum plate in the grooves. Get the plate lined up where you want it, but with the top tabs still not inserted into the grooves.

11) Have someone remove the cellophane while you hold the aluminum plate. Now, starting from the bottom, gently push the aluminum plate down onto the plastic base. Work your way to the top of the plate, and out to the sides.

Congratulations, your console top should now be glued back on as good as new!

Remember, if you are in the process of reinstalling the aluminum plate, and you find that you have it misaligned, don't panic! Get out the adhesive remover and start again. If you pull to get it to come off, you WILL bend it!

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