Fixed Orifice

Still doing my 134 conversion.
Blasted rain!!

But now I have the heater box out. I'm going to flush everything today and tomorrow.

My question is about the orifice tube. I bought a new one for $4, but the haynes book mentions needing a special tool? Is replacing this thing possible without the tool? Is it even necessary?

Dont fix what isnt broke. If the orifice tube isnt plugged up, just leave it.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

Thought I had to do it with the 134 conversion. But looking around I see not many do and their A/C works fine. Thanks for the reassurance, Jeff.

The original orifice tube will work fine with 134a. Since the pressure / temp relation is a little different for 134a, you can help things a little by slightly reducing the pressure the CCPS (switch sticking straight up out of the accumulator with 2 wires to it) cycles at. Remove the connector, and you will see a screw. Turn the screw 1/8 to 1/6 turn counterclockwise to lower the turn on and turn off pressure by about 3 psi.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)