North American Turbocoupe Organization



Exhaust manifold and turbo removal
Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#1
Hey guys going to try and keep this real quick and easy to answer I hope.
If you've been following my other post you know I've got my coolant lines off the engine while I'm painting them and replacing the rubber. I've got the intercooler off. I was about to put that back together, but the next thing I want to do is probably getting to the turbo and maybe the exhaust manifold.
If I said I'm going to take the turbo and exhaust manifold off real quick before I put the other stuff back together would that sound like a bad idea? Like if I was hoping to see the car running by the end of the day? Exhaust is new turbo was off lately(not by me)
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#2
Well, I see that you said the turbo was off it lately, which is better than not being off since new, but it comes down to if the drain line removes with no issues. If you are removing the turbo from the manifold, do that on a bench as some of the four bolts are a pain to work with and can be on there real good. Also, if you separate the turbo from the manifold, do you have a new turbo gasket? You can do this in a day for sure, but if you have to have it running by the end of the day, murphy will show himself.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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John B Offline
Member
#3
I agree with what Kuch said. It really comes down to the removal of the coolant and oil lines to the turbo. Removing the manifold itself is not difficult (IMO) and as Kuch said, would probably be best to remove manifold and turbo as one unit and separate on the bench. A new turbo to manifold gasket is HIGHLY recommended. From the factory, there is no gasket between the manifold and engine. I, however, do run a SCE copper manifold gasket to help with surface irregularities between the engine and gnari manifold I'm using. It works very well; no leaks 

I actually just replaced my exhaust manifold and turbo this past weekend. I can have everything done in a day but I have done this several times already. The coolant and oil lines on my modified setup are easier to remove and put back on versus the stock equipment. I'm just curious but why do you want to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold in this case?
88 Turbo Coupe: Front mount intercooler, MGW short throw shifter, full coilover conversion, tubular control arms front and rear, svo front brakes, vacuum assist brake swap, manual steering swap, GT35R turbo with external gate, pimpx ecu, 60lb injectors, 3 core aluminum radiator, Boport 1.5 cam, gutted upper, corbeau fixed back seats, and the list goes on.
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#4
All right thanks for the answers guys, you told me what I needed to know for today. I'll just put the car back together. Probably better that way anyways in case I need to retrace my steps.
The reason I want to remove the turbo and manifold is that I have some loud exhaust noise from the front end of the car with a ticking sound. I know for sure there's at least one gasket missing from the turbo. You can feel the exhaust coming out. I'm sure I'm taking a big performance hit as well as the noise.
The exhaust was replaced with a 3 in single setup from stinger. It sure sounds a lot better than my old punky holy original exhaust. So I'm assuming if I've got exhaust noise it's going to be ahead of that.
I've got a turbo gasket kit as well as an exhaust manifold gasket when I got my parts last year.
The turbo was out in Nov 2018 I think, I wasn't keeping a journal at the time. But it was out and apart then.
You guys mentioned about the oil and coolant lines, which is partly what I was thinking when I was wondering if I'd be able to get this off and back on.
Is it more or less inevitable that I'm going to need to replace those lines at some point? I've already seen a bit of an oil drip from my oil line, nothing I even see on the driveway.
I'll get a picture too when I'm out there today.
I don't want to just replace them unnecessarily but if it's inevitable do you think I just should bite the bullet?
Do I need to take the manifold off to determine if there are leaks? If it's not terribly difficult to remove I kind of wouldn't mind removing it just so that I could say there now you know how to remove the exhaust manifold if you need to. But also to look for leaks, install that gasket.
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#5
I should also mention in case anyone's wondering, it wasn't me that did the turbo and I'll leave it at that. Suffice it to say someone needs to take it out and take it apart put it back together and do it right.
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#6
Well if you can feel the leaks, where are they coming from? If the manifold to head, there should not be a gasket there, but to seal it some copper rtv work well to fill in the small imperfections if there are any. If it is coming from the turbo to manifold, then the gasket would need to be changed. You can leave the manifold installed and just remove the turbo, but again, those four mount bolts can be a pain. If you have a leak after the turbo, which part is leaking? You should not need to replace the oil, coolant or drain lines unless they are leaking. I replaced all of my coolant lines with all metal and block fittings to get rid of the rubber hose. Your leaking oil line, is it the big bottom drain line or the feed line on top?
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#7
Hey unfortunately forgot the picture but everything went together nice on the coolant lines. Hopefully I'll be back on it Friday and grab a picture then.
I have to admit the only detection I've done so far is we had it running when it was up on a hoist. It's a loud car in an enclosed space, this was just a quick up on the hoist thing, I didn't have the opportunity to do any more than what we did. What we did see is clearly that there is no gasket in one location on the turbo. I don't know that the manifold needs to come off at all. But I just want to be done chasing these problems once and for all.
I'll have to check out that oil line as well didn't even look at it the whole time I was under there.
I don't think there's any exhaust leak past the turbo.
The turbo was installed by a guy who does mechanic work for me once in awhile. He doesn't do as much as he used to. Anyway, he did get it back in there and the car is running fine other than the fact that he didn't put a gasket in there I don't know if it simply wasn't there and he didn't put it in? He did put RTV in another location that I'm concerned about. Once I get it out I've got the whole gasket kit.
It was just off everything was. Including the oil line and everything so I would assume I've got a chance.
I would be completely fine with removing it maybe even I would say I would prefer it to just take the whole thing off and one go and take it to a bench. What do I do get it up on jack stands, put something under the exhaust and just unbolt what I want and take it off? Simple as that? I've never drained oil before, the coolant is mostly drained right now.
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#8
So bottom line is you need a turbo gasket between the turbo and the manifold, this is the only exhaust gasket you will need. It is a rectangular stainless steel gasket, always best to use a new one if you pull it apart. The manifold to head can use copper RTV, and the turbo to downpipe is simply a tightened down interference fit.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4 50 trim, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, 3" DP dual 2.5" w Hooker Maxflows, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, RR cam, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#9
    I've never taken anything off here.
   
   
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Rob H Offline
Senior Member
#10
The turbo gasket kit I got has five gaskets in it. I'm pretty sure I saw that aluminum one in there between the manifold.


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