North American Turbocoupe Organization



Excessive Brake pedal pressure needed
88LemonCoupe Offline
Member
#1
Hi everyone, I'm having a little more complications in my car here, in order to brake at a decent distance my car requires engine braking and the pedal to pretty much be pushed to the floor.

My one friend says bleeding the brakes will do the trick, one of my resident mechanics say that I likely need to take it to a speicailty brake shop or ford to get the nitrogen booster fixed.. I'm just wondering what you gusy think the problem is.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Is the pedal real hard with very diminished braking power?. Do you hear the booster pump run if you turn the key to RUN?
Pete Dunham


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88LemonCoupe Offline
Member
#3
I can't really verify on the pumping noise right now because I'm at a friends, but yeah I would say the pedal needs excessive force in order to be pushed to the floor. But when I jiggle the pedal it is actually loose.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Have you cheked fluid level in the resevoir? Are either brake warning lights on while driving?
Pete Dunham


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88LemonCoupe Offline
Member
#5
There is no warning lights on at all on my vehicle, the only one that comes up occasionally is the fuel light of course...

I checked my brake fluid and it seems like i'm doing alright, and i tested my pedal and I would say i could get a workout if i pumped it 30 times.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Pump pedal 5-10 times with key off. Turn key to RUN with your head mear the MC. You should hear the booster pump run for around 30 sec and then shut off. WHile the pump is running, you should see the level in the reservoir drop around 1/4".

The accumulator can not be recharged. If it is bad, it must be replaced.

Warning lights: None work?? After pumping pedal several times, turn key to run. Both the red BRAKE light and yellow ABS light should stay on while the pump charges the accumulator. Lights should go off several seconds before the pump stops running. Even with accumulator fully charged, ABS light will come on for about 5 sec whenever key is turned to RUN as the ABS computer runs its prove out tests.

BTW, to check fluid level in reservoir correctly, it must be checked with the accumulator fully charged (after the pump has stopped running).
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
#7
AFIK the accumulator won't cause the pedal to go to the floor. Basically it creates a no reserve issue(ign switch off), and causes the ABS and brake lights to come on during moderate braking. At least that's how mine behaved...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
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88LemonCoupe Offline
Member
#8
I had my friend come with me, we jacked up the car replaced the shattered spring and tried to bleed both rear brakes.

I was in the car pumping the brakes and he said they did'nht work at all or bleed anything, so effecitvely I have no rear brakes.

Another thing thats happening with my car is the LSD isn't engaging at all, but I do have one. Yet another thing is my climate control fans only come on at maximum fanspeed.
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boosted chicken Offline
Senior Member
#9
Was ignition in run position when bleeding brakes?
88 TC#1 Boport stg 3 alum dport head, PT6466, Boport header, CP pistons, Crower rods, MS2xtra
88 TC#2 drag car project(someday)
88 TC#3 parts car (just needed the header panel...bought the whole car, lol)
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88LemonCoupe Offline
Member
#10
If you mean was the engine started, then no... It was one click from turning over.
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