North American Turbocoupe Organization



Esslinger vs Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket
Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#1
For anyone else who has considered Esslinger's cam sprocket, I called Esslinger to ask more about it. I specifically asked them what the pointer on the outer sprocket looks like. The answer I got is there is none (!).

He said the buyer is responsible for marking their own pointer after they find 0*, after installing the sprocket. I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't see the logic in that, and I also don't trust myself to punch a mark in the right spot, and be able to see that punch when adjusting it.


I also just called Race Engineering and here is the exact lowdown on them also.
http://www.raceeng.com/ShowSuppliers.asp...&subcat=SP

The red one is no longer offered. They didn't get alot of requests for it, everyone was ordering the ultralight (Blue) one. Now click the logo to see the part numbers. This is important as the descriptions are misleading.

FD-122xl: This should read U/L Adj Cam sprocket. This is the Blue one and is adjustable, he thinks to +/- 10*

FD-170: this is the Round tooth conversion kit..comes with cam and aux sprocket, as well as the main crank sprocket..convert to round (not sure what the benefit of round vs square is).

FD-170s: This is the round tooth sprocket alone. Yes, it costs more than the square tooth.

Hope all this helps someone. So $99 for the blue Ultralight is not a bad deal at all considering you get marks on both pulleys!!
Sold it Sad*
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Glenn 88TC Offline
Posting Freak
#2
You can just use the stock cam pulley to mark the Esslinger pulley. I just scribed a mark on it. It took 2 minutes.

They don't have them marked because they recommned the Ebar method for setting cam timing.
NO TC and NO headaches.
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Keith Nubel Offline
Posting Freak
#3
All you have to do is lay one on top of the other and line up the keyway, after that you can scribe the timing mark into the adjustable pulley.
1985 TC
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
What Glenn said. I can send you details on the Ebar method, I did it once based on instructions form somewhere and some supplied by TurboRay over at TF.
What I found was that even with the "appearant" slop in the plastic cover markers, everything was actually very close.

Given the RE is selling the ultra light for close to what I paid for the red on several years, I can understand why not many ask for the red one. I would have no qualms about buying RE again, even if it's a little more $$.

The round tooth set up is supposedly to make the (roundtooth) belt last longer. Some claim a little HP savings but I haven't seen any verifiable proof yet. My understanding is you can't mix and match types. IMO it's one of those things you do when you have done everything else and you want to find that last 0.xx HP
Pete Dunham


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Glenn 88TC Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Don't forget the roundtooth setup will require a new crank and aux. shaft pulley's.
NO TC and NO headaches.
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martin0660 Offline
Posting Freak
#6
I just installed the round tooth set-up with Esslinger pullies yesterday. I love the round tooth set-up, it sure seemed easier to put the belt on, right the 1st time. For sure, the Esslinger pulley is super easy to adjust.

I'm not sure that ANY of the aftermarket pullies come with the master tooth marked for the starting point. I know the Esslingers and Racer Walsh ones dont. As has been suggested, lay one pulley on the other, mark the tooth, and install it.

Also has been said, Esslinger insists on the e-bar method, and I agree with them 100%. ANY change in the deck height makes zero a relative term. That why I always snicker when folks say it runs better at -2 degrees or whatever, its all relative ot how much your head has been cut, your HG thickness, etc. Unless you dial the cam in to true zero with the e-bar, you are simply moving it some drection, by some amount, but -2 could still be +4 to true zero. When you do the e-bar and scribe the line on zero to match the pulley, cam timing adjustments are acurate.

BTW, my old rust RW pully is gone Wink May the new owner enjot it forever Big Grin

Bob Myers
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Mike C Offline
Senior Member
#7
On this subject do any of the adjustable cam sprockets fit inside the belt cover? It seems most or all of the adjustables I see pictures of are cut out?

Thanks
Mike C
86 5 speed TC black with MS spats and spoiler since 88, 3.73 8.8 since 89. Fresh rebuild at 240K with new Racer Walsh roller cam, 88 hood. All 3" exhaust w/3" performance cat. 13" Cobra brakes,SFC, Max/Motorsport C/C plates,adjustable lower control arms w/ double adjustable uppers. Konis & Eibachs.
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Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Ok I'm deleting what I just wrote LOL and called Esslinger. Man what a bunch of nice guys. I'm calling him going "ebar? WTF?". I get it now, a fool proof method for making sure lobes for #1 are truely "up" for TDC by measuring distance to each side of the head. I can throw away my POS plastic timing marks now after this. I like it.

I don't like the fact I have to scribe the mark for the cam degree indicator, only because I am quite clumsy and could possibly not mark as true to zero as possible. But I like this adjustable one better than race engineering, honestly. So I think I'll splurge for their EBAR and this pulley.

Sounds easy now that he explained it to me.
Sold it Sad*
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martin0660 Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Mike C:
On this subject do any of the adjustable cam sprockets fit inside the belt cover? It seems most or all of the adjustables I see pictures of are cut out?
They fit inside, but how are you going to adjust it without taking the cover off? Wink Plus I think people like how they look Big Grin

Bob Myers
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martin0660 Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Quote:Originally posted by Matt S:
I don't like the fact I have to scribe the mark for the cam degree indicator, only because I am quite clumsy and could possibly not mark as true to zero as possible.
The pully can be disassembled and turned to any of the other four spots, so you get 5 chances to get it right Big Grin

Bob Myers
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