Engine sometimes stalls during sudden braking, please help!!!

My 88 TC 5speed has a small yet annoting problem. Sometimes when I am coming to an abrupt stop, the engine will stall (fuel level in tank does not matter) Is the IAC causing the problem? I am planning on swapping in the ranger roller cam and maybe a 110-130 amp alternator, hopefully this might help.

Another thing, ever so often, while the engine is idling, the rpms will suddenly drop like it's going to stall, then the engine catches and runs fine

Any thoughts??

Philip Stocker

My guess is either a bad TPS(check faqs) or a serious vacuum leak. My car did the idle/stumble for a while untill it got so bad as to require me to hold the accelerator when I was at a stoplight or "idling" someplace. I'd check the TPS and the vacuumfirst. Sorry, don't know how to check for vacuum leaks...



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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options with new U-joints, tranny Xmember, front end, FULL tune-up with select MSD products, new horizontal axle shock thingies, custom interior, white face guages. Coming soon: boost guage and air fuel ratio guage on the pillar, Gillis valve, K&N, gutted upper, knife edged lower, gutted E6, T3, and steam cleaned engine bay.

When was the last time the car had a complete tune up?

A sticky IAC could possible cause the stalling problem. Since the cost to remove it and clean it out is zero, I would start there.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Do you need to remove the intercooler to get at the iac removed???

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NATO Paying Member
Here is my 1988 TC, Clean look - Glad to be here...
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Here is a pic of my baby

No way! The intercooler is in a totally different spot than the IAC. The IAC is the little cylinder (1 inch diameter, about 4 inches long) on the back of the throttle body next to the firewall right on top of the engine. It has two bolts holding it on and an electrical connector. Just totally take it off the car, be careful of the gasket if you don't have a replacement, and blast it with carb cleaner or WD-40 and use q-tips to clean it out. I ruined the gasket on mine and used a McDonald's french fry box to replace it. Just traced it and cut it, easy. Cleaning the IAC improves throttle response. Do a tune up with motorcraft wires and dist. cap and cheap copper plugs from Wal-Mart and I guarantee you will be able to tell the difference on your top end. Have your battery checked for the stalling problem, if your ABS is having to work overtime then it could drain the power going to your ignition. Do your lights dim when you brake hard? Check it out, even if that's not the problem then at least you know.

Kev

Originally posted by Kev:
I ruined the gasket on mine and used a McDonald's french fry box to replace it.

Haha.. That's great. I'll have to remember that one! We TC guys sure can be resourceful. [Image: smile.gif]

Kev, I wouldn't use the fry box, they are too thin and might wear out. I used the 20piece chicken nugget box for mine. It's corrugated so it's thicker and will last longer...


hehe

James

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Blade

"Drive it like you stole it"

88 bone stock TC with 138k, 5spd, burgundy, almost all options with new U-joints, tranny Xmember, front end, FULL tune-up with select MSD products, new horizontal axle shock thingies, custom interior, white face guages. Coming soon: boost guage and air fuel ratio guage on the pillar, Gillis valve, K&N, gutted upper, knife edged lower, gutted E6, T3, and steam cleaned engine bay.

I did not think you could get a screwdriver in there because the intercooler seems to be in the way - that is why I asked about removing it...

Originally posted by wwwtbirdforumcom:
I did not think you could get a screwdriver in there because the intercooler seems to be in the way - that is why I asked about removing it...

Yeah, I had to use one of those stubby little screwdrivers to remove the screws on mine. If worse comes to worse, it only takes a minute or so to take off the intercooler, so if you need to do so, go ahead. Just make sure everything's seated properly and the clamps are tightened well before you drive away.

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maroon 1987 TC 5spd, 128k miles

k&n mounted in front of radiator with 3" pvc piping, gillis valve set at 17lbs, kirban adjustable fpr set at ?, walbro 255 hi-pressure pump, crappyass rear tires

Best 1/4 mile: 14.857 (with 2.26 60' time)
Best trap speed: 94.01mph

I don't know about others but for myself, being a lefty, it's a lot easier to remove the IC to clean the IAC. If you are going to do a complete tuneup, it's got to come out anyway.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.