North American Turbocoupe Organization



engine missing (kinda long)
Noname
Guest
#1
What's up guys? My bird is starting to piss me off. OK, just so whoever reads this knows the whole story, a couple of weeks ago I had to change my valve cover gasket (or camshaft cover, whatever it is). In doing so, I had to take my spark plug cables off and pulled a couple of them apart in the process, so I went and bought new ones, after I installed them, I couldn't get the engine started, I got it started once and revved it to about 2 grand to keep it running, but as soon as I let off the gas it died.
Well, one thing led to another and I had crossed the 3&4 cables, I had the inter-cooler off when I first started it and had to give it a little gas to keep it going, and it ran a little rough in the process.
So I put it all together and took it for a little test drive and had a real slight miss to it when I got it revved up around 3&4 grand and 80mph+. It was hard to start when cold too. So since then I have put new splitfire spark plugs, a new distributor cap, rotor button, along with the new wires I had bought, checked all plugins, elec. wires, vacum hoses, everything.
Right now, it's missing all over the RPM range, sitting still while revving it up, all gears, in just about all rpms, espically fourth and fifth between 2 and 3 grand. Could it be the gas I put in it? I'll run that out this afternoon and put a different brand in it and see. But any suggestions any of you can give would be great.
I do need to get this fixed asap. I'm getting ready to drive from Texas to Ohio, and that's a long trip to have to worry with the engine constantly missing. Thanks for all help given.

88 TC, all original nothing rebuilt, mods- Superchips chip installed, Splitfire sparkplugs, Bosch 8mm wires, K&N filter
future mods- cross drilled rotors, and performance pads, lower 1-1/2" in front;1" rear, upgrade tires to a hopeful 245s(if they fit)but probably 235s 45s in front and 40s in the rear, 17" Cobra R rims
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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#2
First of all, you should have come here first. It would have saved you time and money. Not to be a smart ass, but you'll kick yourself when you find out how easy this is. Get rid of the Bosch plug wires, they have a history of running bad in these cars. You need Motorcraft wires, they are stock and they are the best. Scrap the splitfires too, they work but they aren't the best. Regular autolite copper is all you need, don't bother with the platinums or double plats. they just cost more. Make sure your timing is correct, take it to a shop to have it timed if you can't do it yourself (around $10). If you try to start the car with the intercooler off then you have unmetered air trying to get into the system and the computer wont like that and it will not run. If you have a hard time keeping it started without revving it up then you most likely have a vacuum leak. Probably around one of the hoses that goes from the turbo to the intercooler or the intercooler to the throttle body. Make sure all the clamps are tightened good. After all this start it up and try it out. Any more problems then come back and ask. I hope you get her running right!

------------------
Kev
88 TC 5spd
K&N in front of the radiator, no mufflers, no cat=straight pipes all the way out the duals, bypassed BCS
Car is all black, no red stripe, blackouts, and chrome duals, red leather interior
Mean Fast and Smooth
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Kevin said it all. Especially about the plugs and plug wires.

------------------
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine shortly, ported head and
manifolds, polished and cc'd chambers, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, Walbro 190 pump and T-3 for starters. KB subs
and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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GT350R Offline
Senior Member
#4
Also tripple check that the IC is sealed. The really like to leak after you have had them off.I like to scuff up the insides of the hoses with sand paper.
GT350R
(sold Sad ) 87 5speed, Motorsport head, [email protected]+2, [email protected], gutted or ported everything & all the typical junk.
84 Gt350 2.3T T-top
84 Turbo GT 418rwhp

My Garage
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Noname
Guest
#5
Don't know if you'll get this or not, but if you do, thanks for the advice, it worked great, I'll be taking those Bosch sparkplug wires back tomorrow. Thanks.
Quote:Originally posted by Kev:
First of all, you should have come here first. It would have saved you time and money. Not to be a smart ass, but you'll kick yourself when you find out how easy this is. Get rid of the Bosch plug wires, they have a history of running bad in these cars. You need Motorcraft wires, they are stock and they are the best. Scrap the splitfires too, they work but they aren't the best. Regular autolite copper is all you need, don't bother with the platinums or double plats. they just cost more. Make sure your timing is correct, take it to a shop to have it timed if you can't do it yourself (around $10). If you try to start the car with the intercooler off then you have unmetered air trying to get into the system and the computer wont like that and it will not run. If you have a hard time keeping it started without revving it up then you most likely have a vacuum leak. Probably around one of the hoses that goes from the turbo to the intercooler or the intercooler to the throttle body. Make sure all the clamps are tightened good. After all this start it up and try it out. Any more problems then come back and ask. I hope you get her running right!

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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#6
No problem ohio! Just come on back if you ever need us again, or just to visit and say what's up...

------------------
Kev
88 TC 5spd
K&N in front of the radiator, no mufflers, no cat=straight pipes all the way out the duals, bypassed BCS
Car is all black, no red stripe, blackouts, and chrome duals, red leather interior
Mean Fast and Smooth
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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