Engine codes

Yesterday I put a gasket on the rear end and refilled it. I also tried to fix the annoying leak around the elbow to downpipe flange, I wasnt really successful. I have no idea why that thing wont seal up. But I guess I have to deal with it til I get a new turbo, elbow, and dp.

Anyway, now today Ive been getting an intermittent CEL just idling, or even cruising. So I got the codes.

KOEO - 23 (separator) 41, 42, 72

I seem to always have 41 or 42 stored. Could my o2 be going bad? Or could a small leak around the DP flange cause false readings?

KOER - 23, 25, 26, 34

I got the 25 regardless of whether or not I smacked the intake with a 3/8 ratchet. KS is plugged in.

I saw the code 34 and took off the EGR valve and cleaned it out, as well as the little port for it in the intake. Then ran the codes again.

KOER take 2 - 23, 25

Still had code 25, could my KS be dead, or am I just not hitting the intake right? I always seem to get a 23, no matter how much I adjust the TPS, I adjusted it anyway to .95v and did KOER again.

KOER take 3 - 23, 25, 34

Lovely, insufficient EGR flow again. Oh well. Im done for the day.

Im surprised I only got code 26 on the first KOER test, If you check my other thread I just posted you will see that my VAM is way out of spec.

The 02 odes are probably not due to the leak at the DP/elbow. That is after the 02 sensor.

23 relates to the TPS voltage being out of range and since you get that as KOEO and KOER that might be a good place to start.
Also see http://www.tbirdheritage.com/articles/qu...tchart.php

Use that link to check out the code 72 and 26

34 is normal if your car had the emissions recall done. Got a black/green plastic valve in the vac line near the EGR valve?

Still had code 25, could my KS be dead, or am I just not hitting the intake right?

It's all in how you hold your mouth

Try this to check further:
http://www.tbirdheritage.com/articles/pi...stepid=DG1

If the VAM is out of spec, 02 codes wouldn't be unusual. Can you cross check it with a known good VAM?

Knock sensor codes are read when you do the wide open throttle (WOT) during the test. The dash switch should be set to premium when doing the KOER

So should I hit the manifold BEFORE doing WOT and brake? Im also running premium at the moment.

Gas is down to $2.78 here, much better than the $3.30 I paid a couple weeks ago.

Doesnt matter when you tap the intake during the KOER test.

I have noted that if I don't do a WOT I always get a 25 and when I do the WOT I never get the 25 and I never hit the manifold, but I never use premium, either. The service manual says that octane, altitude, etc may affect the test reading and a false code 25 could be generated but the manifold is to be rapped moderately when the WOT signal (dynamic response code) is given during the test and it is not necessary to do the actual wide open throttle. So hit the manifold at the proper time and if it still returns 25 get a new knock sensor.