Electrical Fuel Pressure Gauge?

Anyone using one of these? How accurate are they?

Since it's my daily driver I don't want a gauge taped to the windshield or under the hood, and the cost of an electrical gauge is a little more expensicve than a mechanical gauge + isolating kit, with less hassle, but it's expensive [Image: eek.gif] ...

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86 TC, 73 Austin Mini, 72 Austin Mini Van

Click here to beat a ricer.

The isolators are horrible to deal with.

steve

I have one i bought from summit, nordskog part number m8034 and sender s8434 you will have to get fuel rail adapter and line .i like mine alot as far a accurate im not sure yet .Has a memory recall for your high and low pressure Seems to be close with boost vs pressure

I am currently using an Auto meter fuel pressure gauge in a pillar pod. The sender is electric and does not require the use of isolators or any other kind of fluid line in the car. I have had excellent results with it and highly recommend it. It operates very smoothly. I think if got the parts from Brothers Performance (big Mustang accessory place). It did not require any special adapters.

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88 TC
Salvage yard long block doing fine
5-lug / big brake M-2300 kit coming soon
Gillis valve
3" ATR downpipe / 3" single with Dynomax 3" Super Turbo muff
Fuel pump, adj. regulator coming soon
Boost and fuel pressure gauges are now in and functioning on the pillar
Just did the heater core, what a pain!
Want to build an Esslinger aluminum headed V8 eater

Originally posted by thndr_chicken:
I am currently using an Auto meter fuel pressure gauge in a pillar pod. The sender is electric and does not require the use of isolators or any other kind of fluid line in the car. I have had excellent results with it and highly recommend it. It operates very smoothly. I think if got the parts from Brothers Performance (big Mustang accessory place). It did not require any special adapters.

thndr_chicken,

Question, do you have the sending unit connected to the Schrader valve with the valve portion removed? The reason I asked is because I purchased the AutoMeter unit and I had mine connected there as per the instructions. It got recalled and I haven't put the replacement back on. Pete D. aka Pres. says not to connect to the Schrader valve. Any and all info. appreciated!

Fred, not sure what I said when, but there is nothing wrong with connecting to the schrader that I know of, just make sure it's tight and check it occassionaly.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

This is the second T-Bird I have used this setup on. The first was a V8 car. Anyway, in both cases, I removed the shrader valve and attached the sender at that point. I have never had a moments problem on either car. I have heard nothing about a recall.

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88 TC
Salvage yard long block doing fine
5-lug / big brake M-2300 kit coming soon
Gillis valve
3" ATR downpipe / 3" single with Dynomax 3" Super Turbo muff
Fuel pump, adj. regulator coming soon
Boost and fuel pressure gauges are now in and functioning on the pillar
Just did the heater core, what a pain!
Want to build an Esslinger aluminum headed V8 eater