Electric die grinder???

I about to start doing some porting on my intakes. I need to get a die grinder. Would an electric die grinder get the job done, or should I just get an air powered one. If air powered, I have a 5.5hp 28gal compressor. Is that sufficient?

Thanks!

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Nick Johnson
87'TC
88'TC- Distributor gear sitting in the oil pan in pieces
"Educating Columbus, Ohio about the Turbocoupe; One stoplight at a time"

I'd recommend just buying an air die grinder, especially if you already have a compressor. I personally have an electric die grinder, but have busted my lip open and hurt my wrist a few times from the torque the damned thing creates. 25,000 rpm is just too fast for some of the more delicate work you'll eventually need to do. Besides, you can get a decent air grinder for under $40, or even cheaper in some instances. My electric grinder cost upwards of $120.

I know that Pete has geniously rigged up a light switch to control the speed of his electric die grinder and has apparently had good results with it.

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Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 136k miles
k&n cone in fenderwell, PRofec B electronic boost controller, kirban adjustable fpr set at 44psi base, walbro 255 hi-pressure pump, Bailey BOV, ported e6, stock IC, a237 cam, mildly ported head, t3/t4 50 trim / stage III .63, full 3" exhaust, eec-tuner, 55pph injectors, dave compton a/f meter, Nitto 555R drag radials
Best 1/4 mile (before tuner, turbo, injectors, drag radials): 14.120 (with 1.983 60' time)
Best trap speed: 98.44mph

Ok...I'll go with the air powered! The have one at Harbour Freight for around $20!

Thanks!

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Nick Johnson
87'TC
88'TC- Distributor gear sitting in the oil pan in pieces
"Educating Columbus, Ohio about the Turbocoupe; One stoplight at a time"

Nick,

That's an adequate compressor, especially if you will be stopping and starting quite a bit while porting.

I'd get an air one.

The rheostat is a good idea.

A floor-mounted pedal rheostat would be even better. I wonder how hard that would be ...

I've got an air grinder now..like it much better. My old electric one didn't have an auto shut-off, and it was a scary PITA when a sanding roll came apart, or the bit started to chatter or walk..YIKES!

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Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental..
83 Pseudo-Coupe, 87 Ranger (soon to be 2.3T), 84 XR7, 86 XR4 and 62 Mercury Monterey (old n slo)
NATO Member

I have both an I much prefer the electric. That way I don't have to deal with a cumbersom air hose when trying to do delicate work. Like Steve said I run mine through a $6 rotary light dimmer switch so speed is adjustable for the type of task. That being said, the electric is much more expensive ($180+ for a Mikita). Don't waste your time and money on the $15 Mikita knockoffs on e-bay. I haven't had one make 10 minutes yet before it burned up. BTDT, TANSTAAFL.

If you get an air grinder, get one that does NOT exhaust through the front. Blowing chips are real messy and dangerious. Get a rear exhaust one. Even with that get a full face shield as well as safety glasses.

Chuck, When you hear that sanding roll let go, the secret is don't take it out of the hole until the power is off. Wonder how I figured that out [Image: biggrin.gif] Can you say scar tissue [Image: mad.gif]

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Good judgement comes from bad experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 04-30-2003).]

I geuss this is just a "me too" post, but I have and use both, but definately prefer my electric die grinder. I have a very good speed control for it as well, although the dimmer works just as good.

Bob Myers