ECT

I've had a busy week, and no time to get out to the car. Finally trying to get at this, I'm sure I've found it. I dont know which injector is which, but counting from either side inwards lands me in the same spot anyhow. So here's another one of my questions that comes from the fear of wrecking something due to lack of knowledge. 
I see it's behind the upper manifold intake. Looking at it I feel like it is maybe a big deal to remove that? There is space behind that intake to get my hand in but there are some plug wires, the wiring for an injector, and what I believe is the fuel pressure regulator. I was thinking if I removed that fuel pressure reg. I can probably get my hand in there to get at the ect. Would I be opening a can of worms removing that? I see in the diagram an o ring and I assume I would need to release the pressure somehow? 
Or am I missing the easy way of getting at this altogether?

Yes, FPR you are pointing at. Removing it is somewhat a PITA, but doable with some swearing and beer.

IMO, easier to pull the upper intake, which just requires removing 4 bolts. The hassle is the small bolt (8 mm or so) that holds the oil dipstick.

Anything a newbie should know before doing that?
I see there's a gasket in there, if I'm careful can it be reused or should I have something on hand before I get in there? I'd be interested in learning how to remove this so I can clean it up in the future so might be a good learning experience.

I have reused the upper to lower intake gasket before, but it might be a good idea to have a spare on hand just in case. Of course, you need to remove the throttle and cruise control cables (easy). You do not need to remove the dipstick from the engine. Just remove the small bolt holding the dipstick tube to the intake and let the dipstick tube hang.

I've had a busy week, and no time to get out to the car. Finally trying to get at this, I'm sure I've found it. I dont know which injector is which, but counting from either side inwards lands me in the same spot anyhow. So here's another one of my questions that comes from the fear of wrecking something due to lack of knowledge. 
I see it's behind the upper manifold intake. Looking at it I feel like it is maybe a big deal to remove that? There is space behind that intake to get my hand in but there are some plug wires, the wiring for an injector, and what I believe is the fuel pressure regulator. I was thinking if I removed that fuel pressure reg. I can probably get my hand in there to get at the ect. Would I be opening a can of worms removing that? I see in the diagram an o ring and I assume I would need to release the pressure somehow? 
Or am I missing the easy way of getting at this altogether?

I’ve had that fuel rail assembly off so many times I stripped the right-most bolt threads in the intake manifold, had to run a through-bolt and use a nut to hold it on.

Point is, it’s not a big deal. You can get some paper gasket material (there is usually black and brown available, which I think is a bit thicker), trace and cut a new one if you want to.

You might need to remove that entire fuel rail assembly, which includes the metal hoods over all four injectors (they just pull off, CAREFULLY), to get at the ECT. After you get the upper manifold elbow off, it’s fairly obvious. If you do, BE SURE to get into the trunk—on the rear panel where the taillights are attached, there is an Inertia switch with a grey button. Push the button to relieve the fuel pressure. I also push down on the connector and disconnect it, just to be safe in case the button push doesn’t “take” (I’ve had that happen!). No need to remove it all the way.

While you’re at it, if you’ve removed the fuel rail, why not remove the fuel injectors and clean and inspect them? They just pull out of the manifold. Use some carb spray on the inside of the blue plastic “hat” (Pintle) to be sure it’s clean. TREAT THEM CAREFULLY! If you accidentally break off or damage that needle-looking part sitting inside that little hole, you’ve ruined the injector.

There was a time when you could go to most any parts store and get the kit to refurbish them—you’ll find two neoprene o-rings and a slightly brownish plastic washer on each injector, as well as the pintle. Nowadays you’ll probably only be able to get the o-rings at the parts store, which I guess is okay. I prefer to replace all those parts—I recently found someone on eBay selling those old kits with all those parts for cheap ($8), including a tiny fuel filter that fits inside the injector. If you do remove or replace the Pintle, do so CAREFULLY.

Hey Rob, I had to change my ECT as well last year. I did remove the upper intake, but that was all. I had a socket large enough to fit over the sensor to loosen and tighten it down, can't remember the size though. Wrenches would be a pain for sure in that area.

Thanks for the replies guys, still no chance to get out there. My roof sprang a leak, decided to just jump right into putting a new one on due to its age.
Hopefully I'll get at it tomorrow. I've got some of that paper gasket material stuff laying around. Is that a good replacement if I can't reuse the gasket?

Thanks for the replies guys, still no chance to get out there. My roof sprang a leak, decided to just jump right into putting a new one on due to its age.
Hopefully I'll get at it tomorrow. I've got some of that paper gasket material stuff laying around. Is that a good replacement if I can't reuse the gasket?

Yes.

Jeff, any chance you can give me a basic rundown on how to do this including numbers I need to see?
I'm really learning as I go, so lots of things that might seem easy aren't to me. I would really appreciate it.
Don't want to just throw parts at the problem and hope for the best.
Thank you in advance

Well after about an hour of searching through many many pages I was able to find a post in which a list created by another member (Shane Slocum—tr_guy79–years ago) was referenced. A search for that name yielded a posting with this:

ECTF (Engine Coolant Temperature(for)Fan)
196* 1700-1840 Ohm
207* 1420-1530 Ohm
226* 1030-1110 Ohm

ECT/IAT (Intake and Coolant Temp)
50* 3.51v
68* 3.07v
86* 2.60v
104* 2.13v
122* 1.70v
140* 1.33v
122* 1.70v
140* 1.33v
158* 1.02v
176* 0.78v
194* 0.60v
212* 0.46v

MAP/BAP (Manifold/Barometric Pressure)
In.Hg
0 159 Hz
3 150 Hz
6 141 Hz
9 133 Hz
12 125 Hz
15 117 Hz
18 109 Hz
21 102 Hz
24 95 Hz
27 88 Hz
30 80 Hz

O2S (Oxygen Sensor)
Sensor - Warm Engine @ 1300 Rpm 450 Mv
Heater - Cold Engine 2-5 Ohm
Warm Engine 5-30 Ohm

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

Angle Voltage
(Idle) 0.960v (800 rpm idle, IAC unplugged)
13 1.210v
26 1.820v
39 2.429v
52 3.039v
65 3.648v
78 4.257v
84 4.538v

VAF (Vane Air Flow Sensor)
2.2 to 4.4v with no breaks during door swing

VAT (Vane Air Temperatur Sensor)
32* 5800 Ohm
65* 2700 Ohm
185* 300 Ohm
220* 220 Ohm
240* 125 Ohm

(Someone else can vouch for the accuracy of this. I just report what I find.)

So there ya go. BTW, you owe me. I do accept cash and bank drafts.    

OH AND US $$ only, please. Hee hee.

Okay finally, 1 new roof, one flooded basement later and I finally got at this thing. The video will say more than I can. But I will start by saying I'm not super great with a multimeter I kind of learn as I go. On the 2000m setting I was getting no reading. I don't know if it was just too low for my multimeter on that setting so this was done on the 20,000 setting.
Hoping someone can take a look at the video with that in mind and tell me what they think. Also just for good measure I'm going to attach a picture of the part next to where I removed it from the engine. I'm assuming this is the ECT for the fan. Don't see anything else around that could be it.

There is no separate ECT for the fans. PCM uses the ECT you have in your hand for temp info and sends a signal to the IRCM to turn the fan(s) on and off.