Drillin the throttle body

My dad is suggesting a new coolant temperature sensor, but i think im going with the TPS. Also, some turbo mustang website said to drill the hole, it would drop the idle. Well, we know not to listen to mustang people.

Originally posted by Import Killer:
My dad is suggesting a new coolant temperature sensor, but i think im going with the TPS. Also, some turbo mustang website said to drill the hole, it would drop the idle. Well, we know not to listen to mustang people.

Before spending money on a new TPS, I'd highly suggest just adjusting your current one. I need to set my base idle screw to around 600rpm and my tps voltage to around .94v to get a glasslike, steady idle at 800rpm.

Originally posted by SteveX82:
Before spending money on a new TPS, I'd highly suggest just adjusting your current one. I need to set my base idle screw to around 600rpm and my tps voltage to around .94v to get a glasslike, steady idle at 800rpm.

I agree 100%.... dont just throw money at the car! Check the TPS voltage at closed throttle, and be sure it increases smoothly when going to WOT, and set your base idle. Ther is a tech article on setting the TPS and base idle.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Guys..... guys. He said it goes to 2k after a few minutes of driving. This is indicative of a BAD TPS, as I had the exact same problem and replacing the TPS fixed the problem. And no, I didn't even set the voltage on the new TPS, I just plugged the damn thing in and bolted it on, set the idle speed, and it works great.

Originally posted by shiftless:
Guys..... guys. He said it goes to 2k after a few minutes of driving. This is indicative of a BAD TPS, as I had the exact same problem and replacing the TPS fixed the problem. And no, I didn't even set the voltage on the new TPS, I just plugged the damn thing in and bolted it on, set the idle speed, and it works great.

Your singular experience does not substantiate it as the only solution to import killer's problem. TPS's are not plug-and-play devices and *do* require proper calibration for them to function properly. Judging by the fact that you say your car idles fine, I wouldn't be surprised if your TPS is adjusted far too low. While this will not affect your idle, it will affect drivability as the EEC uses the TPS's output in calculations for the fuel and spark maps.
This can cause your car to run leaner (and with more spark advance) than it should during any given throttle position.

"Your singular experience does not substantiate it as the only solution to import killer's problem. TPS's are not
plug-and-play devices and *do* require proper calibration for them to function properly. Judging by the fact that you say your car idles fine, I wouldn't be surprised if your TPS is adjusted far too low. While this will not affect your idle, it will affect drivability as the EEC uses the TPS's output in calculations for the fuel and spark maps.
This can cause your car to run leaner (and with more spark advance) than it should during any given throttle position."

Amen

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
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