North American Turbocoupe Organization



Dragging Brakes
Rodger Offline
Member
#1
Hello, This is my 1st posting. I recently bought an 88 TC; all original, very-very clean, 65000 miles. The rear brakes always drag. I can somewhat easily push the pistons deeper in their bores, in fact one of the calipers is new. Can anyone advise me on this problem?
Thanks, Rodger
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vfrdude Offline
Junior Member
#2
Quote:Originally posted by Rodger:
Hello, This is my 1st posting. I recently bought an 88 TC; all original, very-very clean, 65000 miles. The rear brakes always drag. I can somewhat easily push the pistons deeper in their bores, in fact one of the calipers is new. Can anyone advise me on this problem?
Thanks, Rodger

I fought the same problem with my '88. I replaced one caliper (pin had frozen into the caliper), thinking the other should be OK. Problem didn't go away until I replaced the other caliper - rule of thumb ALWAYS replace both calipers at the same time. You spend a little more at first, but you'll come out ahead in the long run.
Rudy

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'88 Black TC - original owner, 195K. Fully loaded, totally stock
1995 Honda VFR750 hence the id 'VFRDUDE'
1971 Chevy stepside truck.
'88 Black TC - original owner, 195K. Fully loaded, totally stock RIP 03/20/02
1995 Honda VFR750 hence the id 'VFRDUDE'
1971 Chevy stepside truck.
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Rodger Offline
Member
#3
Thanks Rudy. The caliper was replaced by the previous owner shortly before I purchased the car. The brake with the new caliper appears to be one dragging the most. That wheel gets hotter to the touch than the other side and both rears are much hotter than the fronts.
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GT350R Offline
Senior Member
#4
Pull the caliper and look at where the bolt that holds it goes. Where that bolt goes in is the "slide pin". It should move easily. My guess is that it is seized up as they very often do.

If it is , you can either buy the braket from ford or , get the pin out and put new ones in. I usually have to heat them with a torch after soaking them in penetrating oil. Then I hammer the crap out of it till it breaks loose. When replacing them ONLY use the Ford dielectric grease. EVERYTHING else will allow them to lock up again. The fastist I have seen them lock up was with anti-seize. They locked up after less them 50 miles of driving and sitting for 1 month.
GT350R
(sold Sad ) 87 5speed, Motorsport head, [email protected]+2, [email protected], gutted or ported everything & all the typical junk.
84 Gt350 2.3T T-top
84 Turbo GT 418rwhp

My Garage
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Chad88TC Offline
Member
#5
I would also check the emergency brake cables. I'm in the process of changing mine now. The passenger one would not release all the way. And they were also ne calipers.
'88 Black, K&N on VAM, Holset HY35, ported E6, 2.5" single cat-back w/dynomax muffler, gillis, RR cam, TA cam gear, Bosch BPV, Stock IC, Walbro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
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Rodger Offline
Member
#6
Yes, I thought of the parking brake cable also and disconnected it at the wheels to eliminate that from being the culprit. My cables do need to be replaced though; do you know where I can buy new ones?
Also I will check the slide-pins as suggested above.
Thanks guys,
Rodger
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Chad88TC Offline
Member
#7
any local parts store shoukd have them, or be able to get them
'88 Black, K&N on VAM, Holset HY35, ported E6, 2.5" single cat-back w/dynomax muffler, gillis, RR cam, TA cam gear, Bosch BPV, Stock IC, Walbro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
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