North American Turbocoupe Organization



Door Lock Motor
Alaskanzeus Offline
Senior Member
#1
Kind of just having a feeling of mine justifed, but over the winter the passenger door has to be giggled or continuelly pushing the door locks to get the passenger door to unlock. Is the motor shot? It wont open anymore now, the buttons on both sides work though.
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Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Does it lock the door? When you try to unlock can you hear it "clunk" a little? Could be something as simple as the door lock mechanism as a whole needind to be lubed.

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Joe F.

My 87 TC & mod list with sources
JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
Another common problem is the rubber boost that fits over the rod / top of the motor rots away, allowing dirt and moisture to get into the motor / rod assy causing it to bind. If that is the case, the motor / rod assy can be cleaned, lubed, and the rubber boot can be replaced by the finger of a rubber glove secured with tie wraps.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Hurff Offline
Senior Member
#4
There seems to be a fairly common problem that I dont think you have, but just in case....

The motors on these are fairly hardy, but they can carbon up and fail to work reliably. In a small nutshell, you can open the case of these, scrape & clean the brushes and commutator (no sanding) and re-seal the case to hap most work good as new.

If you need to go this route, let me know & I can get you more info.
1987 TC - RIP
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#5
I have a feeling mind is binding up , it wont even let me lock the door manually, any way of fixing that r shoudl i replace it?
also could i get info on clean the motor and brushes, seems liek that can work n the motor s in my 86 stang thanks Hurff!


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Brian J Larkin
1988 Turbo Coupe 5spd
dark blue metallic
gillis boost valve, k&n cone,AFPR, 255lph HP pump,3G 130amp alt, 3.73 gears,mild torquie cam, factory DP, 2003 mustang take off SS mufflers and custom BJL 2 1/4 tails.
(out os service due to my idiot self)

88 TC Auto, med gray met. raven/gray interior, fully loaded miuns leatehjr and sunroof!
converted to N/A 2.3l, but its a nice driver with working A/C!
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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Hurff Offline
Senior Member
#6
Sure, I will get the one I have here apart, document it and try to have it back up in the next day or two...
1987 TC - RIP
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Alaskanzeus Offline
Senior Member
#7
It used to make that "clunk" noise for a few months, until all of a sudden it stopped moving in either direction. I used to sit there and continuously push the buttons till it finally worked. I thought it was frozen or something cause it wouldnt work until the car warmed up. So after it stopped moving I had to open the door manually from inside now. Have to push down with some pressure to lock it to. Also it was really hard to move in the lock position using the key.
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