North American Turbocoupe Organization



Disc brake caliper piston tool for the rear calipers
Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#1
After getting cut by my needle nose pliers a million times, I went to work to borrow this tool and it rocks. It comes with different size inserts for all kinds of "turn style" caliper pistons. You just set it in place, lock the plate and turn the bolt with a wrench and the piston goes in. No more damn needle nose pliers slipping and cutting your fingers, the piston boot, etc.

This is the kind I used, kinda pricy: http://froogle.google.com/froogle_cluste...coring=mrd

They also make this kind, not sure if it would actually work on our calipers due to it's size (might not clear the whole assembly), but its cheaper:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...513&CT=999
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#2
i got on from sears for 5 bucks does work great
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#3
You got the box type or the disc type? I'd love to know that the box type worked, I'd go out and buy one for myself..
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#4
box type, and it works with a 3/8 ratchet and extension. still have to push on it a bit to bit but it worked like a charm
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#5
I used the one that Ryan gave a link to, and it works absolutely awesome. It's like a C-clamp that pushes the piston and twists it at the same time. I borrowed the kit from my mechanic friend. I also tried the little box thing that Brian mentioned, and I had nothing but problems out of it. You still have to push on the tool as it is turning in. I may as well have been using the needle nose pliers.
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Quote:Originally posted by Kev:
I used the one that Ryan gave a link to, and it works absolutely awesome. It's like a C-clamp that pushes the piston and twists it at the same time. I borrowed the kit from my mechanic friend. I also tried the little box thing that Brian mentioned, and I had nothing but problems out of it. You still have to push on the tool as it is turning in. I may as well have been using the needle nose pliers.
really? I think the problem cleared up once I freed the piston up.it was sticking so I cleaned them up and it worked like a charm. The main thing is to keep the caliper stationary. I used a C clamp to the LCA and with a little bit of pushing it went in.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Quote:Originally posted by trashline:
really? I think the problem cleared up once I freed the piston up.it was sticking so I cleaned them up and it worked like a charm. The main thing is to keep the caliper stationary. I used a C clamp to the LCA and with a little bit of pushing it went in.
Maybe I had an idiot moment and was using the box thingy wrong, but it was frustrating to say the least. However, the c-clamp kit is an excellent design and perfect for the job. I'd recommend it to anyone.
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#8
I wonder if one could possibly weld 3/8" ratched adaptor to the end of a c-clamp, and attach the box unit? It'd probably make for a cheap and effective tool. A good kit is over $60, this could cost less than $20 Smile
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Ryan H:
I wonder if one could possibly weld 3/8" ratched adaptor to the end of a c-clamp, and attach the box unit? It'd probably make for a cheap and effective tool. A good kit is over $60, this could cost less than $20 Smile
I could to that! and maybe weld something on the other end of the C clamp to allow it to attach to the caliper better.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
Reply

BogusSVO Offline
Member
#10
you can get a similar set of the "kit" on sale at horbor freight aroud 25 bux

i paid about 50 for mine and I will not do a brake job with out it

the "box" stlye will work but are a painI hate mine, thats why I got the other style
Owns more Turbo FORDS than the law should allow....and still getting more

85 TC going under the knife
84 Turbo ranger --($800.00 ebay) Redneck work truck
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