#1 |
I have read several threads on how you can change the valve seals with the head still on the car by stuffing a 2 foot piece of nylon rope in the cylinder and cranking the piston to TDC, so that the valves dont drop. It sounded to easy, so I put it to the test today.
IT WAS THE EASIEST VALVE SEAL JOB I'VE EVER DONE!!
I just crank the piston to the bottom, then filled it with the nylon rope. Keep about a foot additional out of cylinder to grab a hold of when you are done with each cylinder. Make sure its thick enough to just fit into the spark plug hole. Do not use the skinny rope!
Then I cranked the piston to the top. You can tell when the piston is at TDC because the crank will lock while cranking it around. I then tested each valve to make sure they didnt drop by pushing the spring down using my Esslinger bar, and the pushing down on the valve to see if it would stay in place, all the while keeping the keepers in place just in case. None of them dropped AT ALL!
I have never changed seals with a head on a 2.3 car before, but from now on, this will be the way I do it. SO FRIGGIN SIMPLE!!
Here were the seals I took off.They came off with ease and were like jello....
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...ealtop.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...alside.jpg
I think it says part# PEP 38500
I was told they were good for turbo cars but in less than a year the car was puffing smoke.
I'm going to stick with the blue Nylon ones they sell at Esslinger.
OH FYI: Not all 2.3 valve seal seats are the same size! I had to special order the valve seals from Esslinger because the seats I had were bigger, so I needed the 9/16 valve seals.
Hope this helps someone
IT WAS THE EASIEST VALVE SEAL JOB I'VE EVER DONE!!
I just crank the piston to the bottom, then filled it with the nylon rope. Keep about a foot additional out of cylinder to grab a hold of when you are done with each cylinder. Make sure its thick enough to just fit into the spark plug hole. Do not use the skinny rope!
Then I cranked the piston to the top. You can tell when the piston is at TDC because the crank will lock while cranking it around. I then tested each valve to make sure they didnt drop by pushing the spring down using my Esslinger bar, and the pushing down on the valve to see if it would stay in place, all the while keeping the keepers in place just in case. None of them dropped AT ALL!
I have never changed seals with a head on a 2.3 car before, but from now on, this will be the way I do it. SO FRIGGIN SIMPLE!!
Here were the seals I took off.They came off with ease and were like jello....
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...ealtop.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...alside.jpg
I think it says part# PEP 38500
I was told they were good for turbo cars but in less than a year the car was puffing smoke.
I'm going to stick with the blue Nylon ones they sell at Esslinger.
OH FYI: Not all 2.3 valve seal seats are the same size! I had to special order the valve seals from Esslinger because the seats I had were bigger, so I needed the 9/16 valve seals.
Hope this helps someone
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!