North American Turbocoupe Organization



Dash Wiring Problems/Suspected Ground Problems
GnominClature Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hello everyone. I have a 1988 TurboCoupe.

About a year ago, I was having problems with my power brakes. I found that the problem was a fusible link, replaced that, and now they work fine. I had to unplug my ABS relay so the ABS motor and related components wouldn't run down my battery when the car was switched to off, but the car runs great.

Before I bought the car, the previous owner installed an aftermarket stereo; he connected it with direct wire to fuse. I did my best to get that all cleared out, but I apparently looked over a few wires in the fusebox. My car was recently broken into and the stereo was stolen. All of these recent electrical problems started when I reached into the radio compartment and apparently, I disturbed some of the wires in the back. I also observed a spark from a yellow memory wire that I later traced and found linked to the fusebox.

Now, I'm having problems with my dash and Systems Sentry, but only in part. I hear a very loud buzzing sound that will reduce in volume when I begin to drive or as the car gradually warms up. I'm guessing it's the overboost buzzer. None of my indicator lights will come on except for my seatbelt light, but with two caveats: the seatbelt light appears to be dimmer than normal, while remaining on while the engine is on; it also flickers with my Door Ajar and Gas Light on my Systems Sentry. My tach's needle intermittently bounces, and my speedo does not work at all. The rest of my lights on the Systems Sentry do not function. The remaining gages, light indicators, and door chime function. My clock and electronic climate control both function and retain their memory. My power seats and sun/moonroof also function.

I used a test light and found four fuses to not function; they are not blown because they work when switched out with an equivalent fuse. These four fuses are not getting power. At this time, I have not checked my fusible links.

From what I can indicate, I am experiencing a grounding issue. However, I do not know where to look for a grounding issue nor do I have a wiring diagram. If any of you have any suggestions, I would be entirely grateful.

Thank you for your suggestions in advance.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
What exactly do you mean by "4 fuses arent getting power"? Then you say "they work when switched out...". Do you mean that the power feed in (or hot) side of the fuses arent getting power?

Brakes: is the pump motor running constantly, even when the key is off? If so, the likely cause is a bad realy. Cheap and easy fix. Driving the car with the pump motor running constantly will greatly decrease the life of the pump, and will cause a loss of power braking at some time, as the motor shuts off via a internal thermal cutout after it runs for around 15 min.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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GnominClature Offline
Junior Member
#3
Quote:What exactly do you mean by "4 fuses arent getting power"? Then you say "they work when switched out...". Do you mean that the power feed in (or hot) side of the fuses arent getting power?
For example, I can switch out a 10 amp fuse with another fuse in the fusebox, both will work fine in the slot getting power. I did a visual check and used my test light on all of the fuses to make sure they all allowed current.

I am 90 percent sure that the hot side of the fuses aren't getting power; that's why I think it might be a fusible link that's causing rampant gage failure. It's either that, or a ground problem.

Quote:Brakes: is the pump motor running constantly, even when the key is off? If so, the likely cause is a bad realy. Cheap and easy fix.
I was trying to get a FoMoCo relay to replace the part; I haven't gotten an aftermarket relay to replace it as of yet. Rarely, the pump will run when the key is off, but it's not as frequent when the relay was connected.

Quote:Driving the car with the pump motor running constantly will greatly decrease the life of the pump, and will cause a loss of power braking at some time, as the motor shuts off via a internal thermal cutout after it runs for around 15 min.
Hmmm... when the faulty relay was connected, it never shut off. The reason I mentioned the this electrical issue is that I think I have some serious problems in my electrical system.

At the moment, the brakes still work just fine with the ABS relay disconnected except with the aforementioned symptoms that are rare.

My main concern is my dash problem; I'm not sure if I'm having a ground or a fusible link problem.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
There is a list of grounds (87-88) here; http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQpage/FAQpag...0Locations

I emailed you some other schematics. Let me know if you need any others
Pete Dunham


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GnominClature Offline
Junior Member
#5
Thank you very much; I'm going to dive into this immediately. I'll let you know what I find Smile
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