North American Turbocoupe Organization



Dash gauges quit working
Rob H Offline
Member
#11
(05-12-2020, 09:57 AM)anasazi4st Wrote: Rob, I would bet that is why when you tighten that screw you have problems. Yours is not in the correct location either.
That is good to know, I know I didn't notice or use that groove, very well could explain the funny behavior.
I'll have a look next time I'm in there.
I'm trying to minimize handling as much as possible, make every time worth it.
I know my check engine light is in there somewhere, needs to be put in the right place. I'd like to put the bulb in that my cousin took out, the ABS light. Maybe replace all the bulbs. Put that harness where it belongs. Fix the amp gauge Wink
While we are talking about gauges...
I thought I would take a look for a picture of the gauges. Pretty sure only lights I don't have right are CEL and ABS but figured a quick look at a diagram might nob be a bad idea. Haynes has nothing. Chilton has everything but turbo cluster. And the owners manual right from Ford doesn't even mention the CEL. In my manual, on the bottom left it supposedly is supposed to have a seat belt sign. Which I just went and checked does not light.
What lights should I have on the lower left? Tried shining a bright light to see if I could read them unlit. Can't tell. I know CEL should be.
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#12
(05-13-2020, 07:36 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Not sure I understand your question.  Are you referring to the light gray / yellow stripe resistance wire? What exactly do you mean by "Which side is the grey wire and which is the other?"

For the IAC connector.  I posted it to the FB site and got an answer.  Then to find out the SP683 part from Rockauto is not the correct part.

I may have to find the same part elsewhere or find someone who has a junker they are parting out.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#13
(05-13-2020, 10:18 PM)Rob H Wrote:
(05-12-2020, 09:57 AM)anasazi4st Wrote: Rob, I would bet that is why when you tighten that screw you have problems. Yours is not in the correct location either.
That is good to know, I know I didn't notice or use that groove, very well could explain the funny behavior.
I'll have a look next time I'm in there.

I'm trying to minimize handling as much as possible, make every time worth it.
I know my check engine light is in there somewhere, needs to be put in the right place. I'd like to put the bulb in that my cousin took out, the ABS light. Maybe replace all the bulbs. Put that harness where it belongs. Fix the amp gauge Wink
While we are talking about gauges...
I thought I would take a look for a picture of the gauges. Pretty sure only lights I don't have right are CEL and ABS but figured a quick look at a diagram might nob be a bad idea. Haynes has nothing. Chilton has everything but turbo cluster. And the owners manual right from Ford doesn't even mention the CEL. In my manual, on the bottom left it supposedly is supposed to have a seat belt sign. Which I just went and checked does not light.
What lights should I have on the lower left? Tried shining a bright light to see if I could read them unlit. Can't tell. I know CEL should be.

My seat belt light does not and I don’t think ever has worked. Not sure if that is a factory thing or the original owner’s choice.

Fixing the amp gauge is easy, if you are referencing a no-longer-responsive stock amp gauge. You will need to remove the IP cluster, not that’s it. Get a couple of test leads (DIY them with some old leftover wiring and some alligator clips), open the hood and carry the IP cluster to the front of the car, and connect the test leads to the battery and briefly touch one lead to one amp gauge attaching screw on the rear of the cluster, and the other lead to the other, watching the gauge. It doesn’t matter which is negative and which is positive, as you will see. If you connect the wires one way, the needle will move to the bottom (negative amps) of the gauge; the other, it will move to the top.

Once this is done you have effectively de-magnetized the gauge and it should work well for another 6 months or so.

Consider replacing the original analog lamps—that offer uneven light and are a battery drain—with LEDs. I did last year and won’t be looking back.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Rob H Offline
Member
#14
Anasazi4st
That method for fixing the amp Guage sounds easy enough, though doing it again every 6 months or so would require pulling the cluster more than I want to. Wish there was a longer lasting fix. But I was mostly joking about fixing it anyways, at some point I'll likely just install aftermarket gauges like some have.
In regards to the led replacements, I like that beautiful green glow...would I lose that? Mine seems pretty even, but I would love to go the route you have gone and reduce the electrical draw on the system all these bulbs have.I also wonder, are they dimmable? Like if I was to use the wheel to dim the dash lights, would it dim the leds in the cluster?
I have ordered several led bulbs off Amazon last year. I think the only ones I ended up actually using so far were in the map lights. They don't put out a very nice light color in my opinion. Very blue, and effectively I saw not much if any improvement in the interior brightness of the car.
In regards to those map lights, I don't like the way they spread the light. I've wondered about replacing the clear plastic that seems to "aim" the light with a piece of clear plastic that would just let the light come out more i think. Not sure if you know what I mean or not. The plastic lense or whatever it is seems to point the light at the seats. Drivers side points left, passenger side as seen from the drivers side seems less bright, as it is pointing to the passenger.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#15
IMO, amp gauges are basically worthless. A voltage gauge is MUCH more useful as a measure of electrical system performance than an amp gauge anyway. I am not just blowing smoke out my ass with this statement..... I spent my carrier as a physicist / electrical engineer, including a 5 year stint working in R&D in the power generation / distribution industry.

I have digital volt gauges in both my Tbirds and a quick glance at the volt gauges tells me everything I need to know about the electrical system performance.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#16
(05-18-2020, 01:52 PM)Jeff K Wrote: IMO, amp gauges are basically worthless.  A voltage gauge is MUCH more useful as a measure of electrical system performance than an amp gauge anyway.  I am not just blowing smoke out my ass with this statement..... I spent my carrier as a physicist / electrical engineer, including a 5 year stint working in R&D in the power generation / distribution industry.

I have digital volt gauges in both my Tbirds and a quick glance at the volt gauges tells me everything I need to know about the electrical system performance.
^^^^ I would COMPLETELY agree with Jeff on this. If you want the best accuracy then aftermarket is the way to go.

I came up with this fix because I HATE a dead gauge, and this restores it to working order, although its accuracy is in question. I’ll likely install a windshield/door pillar set of temp, oil and voltage gauges at some point soon.

When I was considering the Boss Stereo Head Unit conversion I wanted to install amp, oil pressure and temp gauges roughly where the Graphic Equalizer is/was. But when I was all done there wasn’t room for those, so instead I went with the two rocker switches (for the rear camera and the radar detector).

Rob: yes, the green color is unaffected, just much brighter. Be sure and get white normal brightness LEDs. I have a list of the OEM equivalent part #s to get—it’s also available here if you do a site search. There are several in the IP cluster.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#17
(05-13-2020, 07:36 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Not sure I understand your question.  Are you referring to the light gray / yellow stripe resistance wire? What exactly do you mean by "Which side is the grey wire and which is the other?"

Greetings Jeff.  

I'm not seeing a grey/yellow stripe wire.  The only grey wire I have is/was actually the Red/blue stripe wire being replaced at some point before I had the car.  That wire went to starter solenoid.

Does anyone have a location and picture of this IVR that you mention.

Also what is the difficulty in replaceding the old gauges and replacing with newer led or better looking gauges?  I hate driving without gauges and wouldn't mind purchasing a new cluster and replacing the Oil, water, fuel and Voltage (instead of Amp) gauges?

Last thing.  I've always had issues by my digital tripmeter/clock/date device.  I can set the minutes/day but not the hours or month.  I took it apart and everything looks fine.  Does this go bad normally?

Thanks
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#18
No pic of the IVR, but it is easy to spot. It is on the back of the cluster kind of between the tach and amp gauge. Small box (5 sides metal, top white plastic) maybe 3/4" x 3/4" x 1" that has a standard 9 V battery connector on the white plastic part.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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