North American Turbocoupe Organization



Dash gauges quit working
anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#21
(06-04-2020, 03:33 PM)MN88TurboCoupe Wrote: I've gone over my dash and no explanation of why I am still not getting any readings (except for Tach/Speed).

Besides that dash are there any modules that could cause this or maybe the computer?  I did go through the dash fuses and they all seem to be fine.
 
Did you check the large connector that goes into the IP cluster? The small pins that hold the various wires into it can work loose, and there you have it—no connection. I had that problem, intermittent or non-working gauges, after I installed the LEDs. I thought about it, and decided the easiest thing to do—as I have no spare connector right now—was to squirt some Gorilla Glue Clear Grip in each of the holes, from the back. (The stuff is like a thinner version of GOOP). After a few hours I plugged the connector back in, problem solved.

There might also be oxidation between the various ribbon connector terminals under each of the gauges, but that would likely no cause ALL the gauges to quit working.

It could also be a bad or burned ignition switch. Do you also have A/C? Although that usually also affects the speedo and tach.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#22
Speedo and tach operate on 12 V unlike the fuel, temp and oil press gauges which operate on 5 V from the IVR. The 12 V comes in on one of the pins of the big cluster connector. If you lost 12 V due to a bad connection at the connector both speedo and tach would be inoperative. Just tach inop tells me an internal problem with the tach.

If you have a 12 V supply or 12 V battery (easy to come by) and a signal generator (most people dont have one, but I THINK you can use the sound card in a PC to effectively make a signal generator) you can bench test the tach to see if it works.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#23
Here is some images of my cluster and wires.


https://ibb.co/X36TSJ6
https://ibb.co/MGWfL42
https://ibb.co/BBVb1n2
https://ibb.co/SVHRdvk
https://ibb.co/WkqcVP0
https://ibb.co/tLKd3pX
https://ibb.co/K9WFBXz

Last picture if anyone has the plastic clip one of my broke.  It's the metal connection on the left side.


I don't think I have a 12v proplem.  If anything it would be the 5v since it's my oil, gas, amp and temp gauges not working.



I did check to see if my AC works and it comes on and blows but I'm pretty sure I have to charge up the system a bit since it only blew luke warm air.



Thoughts?
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#24
(06-07-2020, 07:06 PM)MN88TurboCoupe Wrote: Here is some images of my cluster and wires.


https://ibb.co/X36TSJ6
https://ibb.co/MGWfL42
https://ibb.co/BBVb1n2
https://ibb.co/SVHRdvk
https://ibb.co/WkqcVP0
https://ibb.co/tLKd3pX
https://ibb.co/K9WFBXz

Last picture if anyone has the plastic clip one of my broke.  It's the metal connection on the left side.


I don't think I have a 12v proplem.  If anything it would be the 5v since it's my oil, gas, amp and temp gauges not working.



I did check to see if my AC works and it comes on and blows but I'm pretty sure I have to charge up the system a bit since it only blew luke warm air.



Thoughts?

I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary in your pictures, except that your ABS light is on, which is a completely separate issue.

I’m wondering if it IS the IVR (Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator). That would at least partially explain why 3 of those 4 gauges don’t work. I don’t believe the ammeter is part of that circuit, though, so that doesn’t solve that problem, and maybe it’s not the answer.

The obvious solution is to try another IVR. I don’t know how hard they are to find; I just replaced mine but it was with an NOS one that I’ve had for some time.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#25
(06-08-2020, 01:02 AM)anasazi4st Wrote:
(06-07-2020, 07:06 PM)MN88TurboCoupe Wrote: Here is some images of my cluster and wires.


https://ibb.co/X36TSJ6
https://ibb.co/MGWfL42
https://ibb.co/BBVb1n2
https://ibb.co/SVHRdvk
https://ibb.co/WkqcVP0
https://ibb.co/tLKd3pX
https://ibb.co/K9WFBXz

Last picture if anyone has the plastic clip one of my broke.  It's the metal connection on the left side.


I don't think I have a 12v proplem.  If anything it would be the 5v since it's my oil, gas, amp and temp gauges not working.



I did check to see if my AC works and it comes on and blows but I'm pretty sure I have to charge up the system a bit since it only blew luke warm air.



Thoughts?

I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary in your pictures, except that your ABS light is on, which is a completely separate issue.

I’m wondering if it IS the IVR (Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator). That would at least partially explain why 3 of those 4 gauges don’t work. I don’t believe the ammeter is part of that circuit, though, so that doesn’t solve that problem, and maybe it’s not the answer.

The obvious solution is to try another IVR. I don’t know how hard they are to find; I just replaced mine but it was with an NOS one that I’ve had for some time.

Bad emergency brake line for the ABS light.  I've attached a file.  It's basically the 2nd picture but rotated and circled in red what I presume to be the IVR.

Attachment didn't work so here's the link. https://ibb.co/BBznD26 Upper right circled in red.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#26
Yes, that is the IVR. IVR is only used for the oil press, temp and fuel gauges and has nothing to do with the speedo or tach or amp gauge.

The POS stock IVR, which is the EXACTsame part I had on some of my long gone 1960's Fords, is prone to failure. The bimetal switch inside fails to close, sticks closed, etc. They are available new from some of the Mustang supply online stores, but are kind of pricy.... around $40+. Get a solid state one from Ebay if you dont want to build your own for $5 worth of parts.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#27
(06-08-2020, 03:26 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Yes, that is the IVR.  IVR is only used for the oil press, temp and fuel gauges and has nothing to do with the speedo or tach or amp gauge.

The POS stock IVR, which is the EXACTsame part I had on some of my long gone 1960's Fords, is prone to failure. The bimetal switch inside fails to close, sticks closed, etc. They are available new from some of the Mustang supply online stores, but are kind of pricy.... around $40+. Get a solid state one from Ebay if you dont want to build your own for $5 worth of parts.

I noticed (only a cursory glance this morning) that the ribbon is attached to the IVR.  How is that removed without tearing the ribbon or destroying the IVR.
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#28
Ribbon cable to IVR has a connector that is exactly the same as a 9 volt battery connector. Ribbon cable just pops off the IVR. When I built my own solid state IVRs, I took 9 V batteries and gutted them for their connectors to attach my home made IVRs to the ribbon cables.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#29
Stupid car. I replaced the IVR. Same problem. So now what? Someone mentioned the 5 volt wire going to the cluster. Where does that go to and from ?
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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MN88TurboCoupe Offline
Member
#30
I've taken more apart of the dash/steering column.  When I test the grey/yellow wire I get no voltage.  I understand it's supposed to be either 12 or 5v.  Normally the easiest fix would be to find a 5v lead and splice it into the wire but I'm not 100% it's supposed to be 12 or 5v.

So I'm replacing the ignition switch from RockAuto  https://ibb.co/Gs0tcfc

But in the process the clip holding the wires broke on https://ibb.co/tYYNWp3

Here are all the pictures.

https://ibb.co/SJZX0zf
https://ibb.co/Gs0tcfc
https://ibb.co/PMdTc2p
https://ibb.co/c26rJZk
https://ibb.co/tYYNWp3
https://ibb.co/r2vs4Wg
https://ibb.co/M2NjJv6
https://ibb.co/BBznD26
https://ibb.co/K9WFBXz
https://ibb.co/tLKd3pX
https://ibb.co/WkqcVP0
https://ibb.co/SVHRdvk
https://ibb.co/BBVb1n2
https://ibb.co/X36TSJ6
https://ibb.co/MGWfL42

Anyone have a spare of this.  https://ibb.co/r2vs4Wg
Publicity, fame and accolades can make a theory popular. They can't make it true.
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